To whom to trust in Venice? Day of second
is capable to Get stuck on the small island, under a pouring rain, in the early foggy morning - on it not everyone. Without having the ticket for an entrance, the guide and cards of the tourist, I was doomed to become wet under walls of the monastery of the Armenian community the whole hour, with such interval vaporetto pass by San Lazare Armeni`s del. However, it happened for the third day, and now at us...
the Breakfast in hotel begins Day of the second
at 8:30 and lasts till 10:00. It is necessary to wake up as soon as possible to see dawn over the Grandee the Channel! In the middle of March rising began around six. A fine opportunity to arrange morning walk on the next (to hotel) to vicinities, to return for breakfast, and then to go already to a distant campaign for the whole day, and even night.
To get lost in a labyrinth of narrow small streets - here the first desire. I do not know where residents vanish, but any not central street is always desert. By the way, the central street in Venice one is a Grandee - the Channel, the biggest waterway of the city. Here on it - that is enough people - on gondolas and vaporetto (who did not read the first part and does not know this word, I will explain: these are small paromchik, the main vehicle in the water city).
By the way, vaporetto on tourist routes differ from usual, Venetian. The tourist vessel has one big room for passengers, and the helmsman is on a nose. Whereas standard vaporetto has the helmsman`s cabin on the center, and places for passengers are located on a nose and aft. Is still big vaporetto which ply between islands - on it I will sail on Burano`s island tomorrow.
In the first morning I followed advice of the guide and went along the offered route from San - Marko to Rialto Bridge. As well as 500 years ago, the bridge is shopping center of Venice. Only now there is exclusively souvenir trade. Only early in the morning the vegetable markets directly on barges open, and aboriginals come to buy fresh greens.
In the afternoon and evening Rialto reminds our Arbat - foreigners and souvenirs. Along coast the Grandee - Canala fires of tens of restaurants, cafe, pubs and other various “repiecewise“ are lit. Venetians (perhaps, and Italians in general, but I speak for those whom saw) drink wine - the same as at us drink, for example, beer. In the morning, during the lunchtime, in the evening. Beer is ordered by foreigners. Choice small, by the way. There is a local dark bitter beer with the fancy name. On taste pleasant.
First of all the tourist needs to catch the ticket on vaporetto - it is necessary to float much. In the city only three bridges through the Grandee - the Channel and to get over from one coast on another quicker and more simply on vaporetto. The matter is that stations are located as follows: the first on the left coast, the second on right and so on. That is ships move zigzags.
Speak, there is still an opportunity to employ boats for a crossing from the coast on the coast, but I in it did not see sense. The matter is that if at us in the subway, for example, tickets are on sale by quantity of trips, then on vaporetto tickets differ on action duration: from 12 hours to 3 days. It would be logical to buy for 72 hours, but, having got confused in Italian (and having confused the girl - the ticket collector), I got for 36 hours. Ticket offices are at big transfer stations from which there are several routes at once.
I will share the opening - a hare in Venice to be very simple! Everything is constructed on trust - the entrance on vaporetto is faced by the device to which it is necessary to attach the ticket. On it check, the ticket or already not is valid. But who checks? Yes passengers!
The controller, having ascended aboard (only once there was it), just asks to show the ticket. You show also all - nobody checks an expiration date! I admit, once passed a hare. But not on evil intention, and on forgetfulness - 36 hours flew by at the moment, the test device showed red light, but at station there was no ticket office. Well to do? Passed aboard illegally.
And here if you without ticket - land. Announcements threaten with a fine of 48 euros, but in the situation seen by me, did not take a penalty, just landed at the following stop. Landed two students from India. And they became the victims of fancy transport system of Venice. You remember about “Allilaguna“ - the only thing (the state monopoly!) carrier between Venice and continent? They have own tickets, not electronic, but usual of dense paper (remind tickets at movie theaters). Here students also showed such. Alas, did not give a ride. They say that for a route of Long Nord conducting to remote islands there are separate tickets. Perhaps, it was during release of my guide to the public, but I managed the usual ticket.
On the way to the bridge I was waited by meeting. Venetians are the famous rebels and separatists. All cannot reconcile to falling of former greatness in any way. To leave structure of Italy - their main objective. On the fact that whether the city is dependent on the Italian budget slightly for 100%, to separatists to spit. However, now everything passes rather peacefully. Couple of police boats quietly rock on waves near the mooring. Having made couple of pictures, I go further.
Having twirled in an interlacing of streets, it appear in a private court yard. However, there is nobody therefore I dare to look round. On a wall under an arch I see a statue silhouette. It is a trace of that Big flood 62 - go years. Water was above the second floor! I come back to a route. It is difficult to follow it - constantly there is a wish to turn for a corner, to come into an open door or to return to a fork. Here, for example, boots. Who left them here? Beggars in the city exactly two pieces (so much I saw). And saw one time. Then, probably, they were found by police officers. It is a little law enforcement officers in the city. Generally they appear near San in the late afternoon - Marko.
There now I reached Rialto. Of course, pulls to include a big piece about bridge history, but what for? Walking across Venice, I suddenly understood what can just be gone, looked, photographed and at the same time not to try to remember and find out information on this or that object. Having come back home, any tourist can find in the Internet anything about any significant object! And if still fotoappart supports GPS - targeting, and on the computer Google Earth is established... Any guide will not issue you so much information how many it is possible to find in a global Network. Therefore leave information for later, and during travel absorb feelings, emotions and events.
Masks, gondolas, multi-colored glass glasses, magnetics, obligatory for all souvenir shops of the world, on the refrigerator: Venice tourist - perhaps, the most boring part of the city. Here it is worth coming into the evening, last before departure, to quickly gather a bag of knickknacks and to return to number to pack things. For those who do not know Italian, I will report: among sellers of souvenirs the girl from Russia also works at Rialto. In general, the Russian speech it is heard often. And even in back streets, far from tourist routes.
Back to hotel I floated on vaporetto. But without having reached one stop, did not sustain and left near the grandiose building - the Santa Maria church of della Salute. Only about this church it is possible to write not that article, and the whole book. “Salute“ in translation means “health“. The name completely reflects construction history - the church constructed in the 17th century symbolized a victory of Venetians over plague. Epidemic of 1631 claimed 95 000 lives. Now in the city of 270 thousand inhabitants, but their quantity promptly decreases. Plague here at anything - are guilty socially - the economic reasons. The church does not save from them.
There was a late evening therefore in church I did not get. Moreover, it was the last visitor of station. Following vaporetto brought the police officer who will protect church at night. Well, and I was shipped on the vessel and sent to tourists to San Square - Marko. I will return to Salute the next morning and I will make several pictures. Take, take with yourself a support! In church it is not forbidden to remove, but it is impossible to use flash. Do not forget to leave couple of euro for donations. It is not obligatory, but it seemed to me impolite to seize the smart opportunity to finish shooting the building of the 17th century and to leave nothing on maintenance and reconstruction of church.
Also do not abuse free trips around the city. All city economy keeps on tourist finance. For this reason fare for the foreigner of times in ten above, than for the aboriginal. But what to do - the city can earn only from itself. You will find generosity of Venice in another - tens of historical places, free for visit and free for photographing.
Try to shoot in Moscow in some temple or church - will throw out! And will complain then of backwardness of tourism in Russia. It in words at us all for people, and in practice - do not understand for whom. Fortunately, the city authorities of “the water city“ are more democratic than Moscow. And Venice is suitable for searches of interesting and unusual shots better than any other city.
There are no specially allocated historical places. Here everything is History.