Whether you happened to try the real vobla? When we eat family silver of Astrakhan
a small dried small fish, we think that we eat a vobla. A vobla at us any often is considered susheno - sun-dried fish. And it far not so. The vobla is separate subspecies of fish. But about it later.
My former fellow student, the resident of Astrakhan in the third generation Igor Mavrikov, invited me on spring to Putin to the hometown. In Astrakhan I was not earlier therefore it was quite curious to me to see own eyes and most to participate in special, unusual to me, fishing.
Astrakhan - the fishing capital not only Russia, but also, perhaps, all Europe. Here during the period Putin come for fishery also young and old alike. Only here it is possible to see with a rod in hands not only serious men habitual to an eye - fishermen, but also children, elderly women and even young mothers with babies in carriages.
What is the real vobla? These are small fry subspecies. Latin name: Rutilus rutilus caspicus. Fish of the Caspian Sea. What gets on our table the Astrakhan vobla, - the fish wintering in the North Caspian region. On the Caspian Sea there are two more types of the isolated herds: living in Hugo - the western and southern part of the sea (the Azerbaijani herd), and Hugo`s inhabitants - east part of the Caspian Sea (the Turkmen herd).
In the spring when water level in Volga increases and under water water meadows leave, packs of a vobla begin to rise from the Caspian Sea up Volga to the delta to lay caviar on small, warmed up by the sun, depth to continue life in the next generations. But a vobla not from those who after an ikrometaniye perish. For the life the remarkable small fish comes for spawning five times - six.
There is one more, very close to a vobla, small fry subspecies - the Siberian small fry living in Ural River falling as well as Volga, to the Caspian Sea. But it, unlike the Astrakhan vobla, it is necessary to winter in the Urals.
So, I in Astrakhan. Began Putin. I observe unusual only to us, not residents of Astrakhan, a picture. On all embankments of Astrakhan fishers stand ranks and catch a vobla on float and ground rods.
The number of fishers, probably, is measured by thousands. But each of them comes back home with some, about lshy or m e nshy, a catch. At home the family feast begins.
Residents of Astrakhan very much like to roast a fresh-caught vobla in vegetable oil. Taste is magnificent! Itself tried. Only one minus - is too much small stones.
Fish is enough for all so far. But it becomes less and less every year.
In old times sought to catch, mainly, valuable breeds of fishes therefore the vobla was not quoted. When the seine was pulled out on the coast, valuable fish was taken away, and the vobla was thrown out back to the river, and often just remained thrown ashore. Also vanished in vain.
Only by the end 19 - go centuries when in Russia there was already developed fishing industry, the vobla becomes a subject of fishing and preparation at large industrialists.
Putin of a vobla precedes Putin to the Caspian herring.
In olden days annually for fishing of a herring industrialists employed artels of fishermen. The same crews waiting Putin of herring were engaged in catching of a vobla. They say that in time Putin of a vobla collateral trade gave on three and more than million pieces of this fish.
But a body of preparations of a vobla nevertheless small industrialists whom was nest numbers gave. And each of them prepared parties from 100 to 300 thousand pieces of a vobla. The most part of these preparations went further to Russia and was on sale there.
I will state in retelling old the Astrakhan recipe of salting of a vobla . The capacity bottom (a big pan, a basin, a wide bucket) falls down a layer of salt of a coarse grinding. On salt the first layer of fish keeps within and then it is filled up with a salt layer. Not to feel sorry for salt!
Further spread the second layer of small fishes and again fill up it with salt. Process continues until fish ends or capacity volume is settled. After that salting is put to the dark place and for days about it forgotten.
In a day you will see that fish gave “juice“, that is the dense hydrochloric solution called by brine was formed. It is desirable to put from above some oppression which is pressing down layers of fish. And to leave salting for one days.
After that fish is cleared of salt, washed out and put in the container with fresh water. In an hour water can be replaced. After two hours of a soaking fish gets the final level of salting. The fact that the top layers at first on salinity differ from deep, let does not confuse you. In the course of drying salinity of layers is leveled.
Now fish can begin to be dried. For this purpose take a scaffold or a twine, string on them fish through eyes (before spoke: “string on mochala“) and suspend sheaves in the cool aired place. Here it is desirable to track that nearby there were no flies who can do harm to purity of a product. And also, that the next small fishes did not touch each other.
Drying can continue about one week and more. Everything depends on temperature and humidity of air. As a result of a vyaleniye the vobla gains amazing aroma which you will not confuse with anything. Fat begins to get through a skin, and the small fish begins to pass bright light through a back. Culinary magic came true!
It is correct to make dried vobla - a certain sorcery which is owned by all radical residents of Astrakhan. The recipe, by the way, suits for any medium-sized river fish.
If you do not salt, and buy fish in the market, pay attention to a pure pleasant smell. Take a small fish in hands, bend her whether it is overdried? Look whether the back on the sun illuminates it? At last, bargain with the seller. And after they are buy!
By the way, in the fish markets of Astrakhan the vobla is on sale not on weight, and by the piece. And the price for one piece fluctuates from 10 rubles for small to 70 rubles for large, about 30 centimeters, piece.
The vobla rescued in lean years not only residents of Astrakhan. It is possible to tell that this national food not once saved also all Russia. Dried vobla - a food product which it is possible to store a long time. For example, in 3-liter jars which are densely closed by polyethylene covers. Banks have to stand in the cool darkened room. Not one month such vobla will please you.
Many years ago I happened to regale abroad on the magnificent Astrakhan vobla soldered in 3-liter metal cans. The holiday of taste was remembered well!
Finally fishing joke. The man comes from fishing home. The wife tired of fables about huge fish who were hooked by it providently ties the husband`s hands in wrists that lied less. Then the man squeezes hands in fists, throws out them forward and a “terrible“ voice, shaking fists, says: “Today at me fish with in - about - from such (!) eyes broke from a hook!“