How to go savages to China? Travel of the grandmother and granddaughter of
Agree, misters, the ordinary Russian pensioner is hardly able to afford full round abroad. Therefore when it was decided to go to China moreover with the granddaughter, I did not begin to address to travel agencies. The visa can be issued directly on border, and further - we will not be gone, there are buses, trains - on something yes will leave.
At first it was necessary to go by buses through the cities of Hongchun and Yangtze, stopping in each of them on a lodging for the night. From Yangtze to Beijing, on - Chinese it is called Beydzhin, we reached by train. In the Chinese couchette cars of the shelf are located to three floors. We got the second and third shelves. I paid for these places 500 with something yuans (1 yuan - about 4 rubles). Except us with Yulya (this is my ten-year-old granddaughter), “persons of a Slavic nationality“ in the car were not. Naturally, on us, mainly on Yulya, glanced with curiosity. Especially girls wanted to communicate.
For a long time little Chinese women did not begin to postpone acquaintance. Yulya was treated with some delicacy, she thanked, and communication began. Little girls quickly taught Yulya to play some game on fingers, then mutuzit each other, ran on the car, laughed, treated each other with the delicacies taken in the road. The number of participants of bustle increased, movements along the car quickly bothered them, and soon in our compartment on regiments (all in a compartment six shelves) five “monkeys“ aged from six till thirteen years circulated.
Our fellow travelers, including parents of girls, belonged to a lasagna on regiments absolutely quietly. One of new girlfriends, the nice chubby little girl, mother called Miao - Miao. As I understood, it meant something it seems “kitten“. Miao - Miao wanted to sleep not on the lower shelf in the compartment, and on the third shelf in ours. Mother did not oppose, but sat below on a lateral seat till the dead of night until her Kitten fell asleep sound sleep.
In the next compartment six men settled down. In the late afternoon they pulled out on a beer bottle, some snack in boxes, vegetables, bought noodles and began to feast. Having remembered the travel in a couchette car across Russia, I sighed and prepared for the worst. But nothing was! There was no “a continuation of a banquet“, a drunk motaniye to and fro on the car, appearance of new drinking companions, a smell of the reek of alcohol … Men with appetite had a snack and, probably, told something ridiculous because the car was just shaken from their laughter. Having finished a meal, they somehow quickly and imperceptibly settled to sleep, and till the morning I did not see them.
We slept in the car perfectly. Despite more than thirty-degree heat and closeness behind a window, in the car it was even cool. The conditioner worked for conscience, and wadded blankets lying on shelves were not superfluous for many.
Having left the building of the station in Beijing, I felt as in a sauna. In this huge sauna it was very noisy, some gray haze was groundless. Mentally I thanked those who placed a booth with cards, plans and guides in the middle of a pedestrian tunnel to an exit from the station. In Russian the plan of Beijing was not, but we quite accepted English.
Making the way to a taxi stop, it was necessary to refuse the proposal of the young man to take us for hundred yuans quite sharply. Hundred yuans are not that sum which is paid taxi drivers for a trip. But the main thing, I did not like a nakhrapistost of the young man and (you want - laugh, want - no) the fact that on his little finger there was the long nail. The turn by a taxi was quite big, but cars approached one by one, and soon we were on the place, having paid no more than twenty yuans.
It is necessary to tell about the place where we settled - hostel in a hutonga . Hutong - so in Beijing call areas which kept “architecture of ancient China“. These are streets of traditional one-storeyed building with the gray lodges covered with a tile roof of a curved form. Once in the Middle Ages those to whom it was not allowed to settle in borders of the Forbidden city, i.e. the persons who are not brought closer to the emperor lived in them.
It is the downtown. Any taxi driver who is not knowing English and to Russian, understood at once where it is necessary to go. Was to say “Lam Tiempl“ enough. Lam Tiempl is a palace of a lama, and our future shelter was nearby. The place where it is possible to stop in Beijing, I found by means of the Internet beforehand. Hotels in Beijing expensive. But there are such remarkable shelters for tourists who are called hostels.
In effect, this hostel. There are youth hostels, and there is a lot of such which receive guests of any age. Our hostel was very cozy and some house. It was possible to lodge in the certain small room, and it was possible to divide the room with neighbors. We lodged in the room where there were three bunk beds. The payment for the place in our room made 70 yuans. The toilet, a shower with hot water, the TV, a teapot, the conditioner were in each number.
The most difficult for us appeared to get to this blessed place. The matter is that the hostel was in depth of a hutong where conducted such narrow pass that in it could carefully, almost clinging to walls, to squeeze one car. Then journey extended a little. In a hutong the door conducts with the street in a tiny room where sleeps, and the whole family cooks food. There are internal court yard in which there are inside doors of four - five houses. The narrowest entrance to one of the Beijing hutong less than a meter wide.
Searching for ours hutong, we several times walked to and fro by pass, got to some other hutong which are obviously not intended for accommodation of foreigners. I showed a piece of paper with the address to passersby, but all let know that they do not know where it. It is probable because the address was written in English. Time approached evening, and all of us still were the homeless. The American who stopped us and asked in what a problem was our savior. It appeared, he perfectly knew this hostel. Literally “for the handle“, he led us to the alley by which we passed already ten times, entered with us into hostel (as it was possible not to notice capital red letters of a sign and bright small lamps at an entrance?) also went on the affairs only when it was convinced that we were given a room key.
In the summer moreover on Friday, there were very few empty seats. We had to lodge in the so-called mixed room. It meant that in it both men, and women could spend the night. Quite speckled group was selected: we with Yulya - the Russian ladies, one sixty, other ten years; two young Frenchwomen, one of them of an Asian origin. They almost did not speak in English, and I could shake out from the memory only “thanks“ and “to a Torah byen“. There was a young woman with a huge backpack, too the Frenchwoman who visited Russia in the Far East, knowing English, but, unfortunately, it left next day. There was a young man whom I saw only once in four days of stay in the morning in day of departure, and that sleeping. Also there was a girl whose nationality I could not define. She practically did not speak with anybody communicated only with the laptop, without leaving it even in a bed.
Surprisingly, but all of us did not interfere with each other at all. We with Yulya got up early and left to see as much as possible and, it is desirable, before a scorching heat. Came hours to five, had a rest and went to have supper and walk on nearby streets. The youth came very late and absolutely silently. All of them long slept and again dispersed in the afternoon in our absence.
The trip as a part of tourist`s group would be more comfortable. It is not necessary to worry: “And suddenly we will not find? And suddenly will not be enough? And that if...?“ Beijing - not Hongchun where almost all signs in Russian and Russians it is full. But at us everything turned out. Were not lost which - what learned, saw a lot of things and learned.
That with the guide by bus could see more did not regret. In total - the most interesting are people.