What is known of Olkhon - the biggest island of Baikal?
To our measures the deepest lake of the world Baikal are located nearly on a doomsday. Perhaps, in such perception there is an element of truth, it should reach by train kind week. There is also other road: at first to Moscow, then plane to Irkutsk, from there to Angarsk, some more hours by bus, then half an hour the ferry, and you will appear in heart of Baikal - on the mysterious island of Olkhon.
In good weather from the island the Baikal coast covered with snow-covered Sayan Mountains is visible. During such moments it is possible to tell that there and there is an end of the world known to us, and Olkhon - already the world absolutely another: mystical, mysterious, eternal though in some places it seems also to the family...
Olkhon - the biggest and only populated island on Baikal. Its length - about 70 kilometers, width - more than 30 km. On the island two small villages and one pgt - Huzhir, with the population only 1,3 thousand. Tourists gather in Huzhir. Once the island was the territory of nomadic Buryats. Subsequently the Soviet power created the concentration camp here.
The nature Olkhon - the lonely pines bent by wind on stone rocks, bald hills, coniferous forests. Still on the island century relic pines which reach six meters in a grasp remained. For several hundreds of meters from Huzhir the cape Burkhan on which the Shaman - the mountain, or the Shaman rises is located. It is one of nine largest shrines of Asia and the greatest shrine of world Shamanism. Archeologists proved that more than 5 thousand years worship the mountain already. Local tell that a few years ago drunk tourists got on the mountain, scattered remains of a sacred eagle and turned a cave in which they were based, into a toilet.
Shamans from around the world who gather to Olkhon time in several years restored after that energy of the Shaman continuous singing and prayers within several days. And they managed, the atmosphere at the cape of Burkhan so energetically strong that sometimes it seems what now from legs will knock down you. In this certainly divine place remind of people unless classical inscriptions “Was here...“, which different fonts and the sizes stick around the Shaman on all perimeter.
In several kilometers from Huzhir there is a rocky ridge which promptly crashes into the lake. Exactly here - the deepest fresh-water point of the world. If to look from tops of rocks in a water abyss, then you will see either novel blackness of sacred Baikal emptiness, or dense as milk, fog which likes to disappear in this district.
On Olkhon wind almost constantly blows. It gives mistichnost to ritual columns of Shamanism which are scattered almost everywhere. Wind blows the multi-colored tapes hanged at three levels of columns, symbolizing the sky, the earth and the underground beyond. Depending on where your prayer is directed, choose the level, and the Baikal wind - Barguzin - will incur your words to the specified address.
Except shaman columns, on slopes Olkhon stone cemeteries, remote from our culture, draw attention. There are no dead there, but there are thousands of boulders, stones and stones put in fancy figures. Each stone is someone`s prayer. Unfortunately, it is difficult for tourists to understand the internal deep force of the Buryat people therefore stones - prayers are often transferred to names of tourists, names of the cities from where they arrived, and a mat.
Flora and fauna on Olkhon unique. The majority of types of the Baikal living creatures and plants are widespread only here. The Baikal bread it is possible to call an omul and a grayling. These are species of fish which for centuries got here, processed and delivered on the continent. Today`s huzhirsky port reminds scenery to a post - to apocalyptic Hollywood tapes. Several fishing vessels for the course, despite the excessive rustiness. Now the Baikal fishermen catch tens times less fish, than several decades ago. The gained money is not enough for them for repairs in wooden lodges or on cars, but it is just enough on that every evening after a hard work to be drunk.
The Baikal omul - the largest and most available local delicacy. It is fried here, cooked, extinguished, dried, smoked a hot and cold smoke, salted, preserved. Fish really incredibly tasty in each of the listed ways of preparation. If you manage to gain the confidence of a community of the presents the Buryat, they will offer a shot glass 10 - 15-degree self-race from milk which is fermented on cow kizyaka. To kill taste of this national delicacy, on snack offer planed syromorozhenny mutton kidneys. And in each vegetable marrow you will be fed with poses - the big pelmeni cooked on couple which eat with hands. Buryats convince that this their national dish. Do the same some more tens Asian ethnoses.
On Olkhon there is a feeling that here everything that was and will be, occurs now. Years, eras, an era - anything against the Baikal eternity. On the warped, clumsily brought down wooden izba the parabolic antenna. On a facade an inscription: “Internet“. This only place in Huzhire from where it is possible to return for an instant to society, habitual for us. But it will not be long. To transfer one e-mail - the half-hour act of hatred to continuous separations of the Internet and an unexpected verdict of the owner of a plate - 250 rubles.
Nearby on the nondurable Siberian sun grandmothers luxuriate and at the same time the curved backs prop up the izbas. Grandmas smoke roll-ups. At once near the house - the mountain of garbage. In the middle of the night it is possible to meet the running cow. Thanks to natural selection, cows here - too nomads also live life. Home run only that they were milked. In the fragrant pine wood sometimes it is possible to meet a sleeve from joint stock company. They say that when Olkhon teemed with mustangs and izyubra, communistic cones liked to shoot these noble giants from the automatic machine just for the hell of it...
Impressions after visit of Olkhon so many that they remain in memory for many years. Many people have a dream - to visit Baikal. They do not know what there attracts them, but the fact remains...
Shamans of the island say that positive energy of Baikal as if a magnet attracts to itself people with kind hearts. For this reason for some - need to charge the vital batteries in this mystical place.