It about east market? No, about memory of youth.
my youth had on 60 - e - 70 - e years. Those years was considered that if you want to eat well, and it has to occur not at home and not on a visit, it is necessary to go if not to restaurant, to decent expensive cafe company, as a rule. Usual dining rooms and snackbars, cutlet and dumplings of this list were excluded - these institutions suited only for having a snack, pleasures from food were difficult to be received in them. And at the station or in the market it is better not to eat in general, health is more expensive. It turned out that not everywhere and not always this rule worked.
It happened to me somehow year in 75 - the ohm to visit Tashkent. Business was in the early fall. The day off was given. Acquaintances - any. Money - just barely enough. That is, prospects to spend time also with advantage is interesting a little. I am only able to afford to take a walk in the city and somewhere it is very modest to eat once. At night I already had a plane to Leningrad.
The Russian woman who arrived here once the member of the Komsomol and and settled then in this city was a hostess of the house which part was removed by our expedition. Having learned about my problem, advised to reach the Alay market and to spend day there. I, of course, thanked her, but very strongly began to doubt: how it is possible to spend interestingly day on a market? Yes what to do there - that the whole day? But other options were not, and I decided to take advice of the hostess.
For the Petersburg maiden it was the true exotic. Here on our city markets in the fall, when most of all fresh vegetables and fruit, mushrooms, different pickles how those years the goods were sold how spread on a counter? Truly, kilograms or “small groups“. Yes these “small groups“ and now on spontaneous primagazinny trays it is possible to buy garlic, a radish, cucumbers. An eye already got used to this volume, concerns to him normally.
On the Alay market - everything is laid out by mountains, and such that if the seller decided to sit down behind the counter, it can and be not seen. Here, for example, ranks of rice - a fantasy! How many grades what it shades - not to tell. And what it pure, all touched, a kernel to a kernel. About! Then in Leningrad there was a rice of two grades: kruglozerny and long-grain, most often the smell had musty. Before the use such rice should be touched carefully and to wash out properly. The same rice from a market - well unless to rinse for form`s sake.
I go further. Same mountains of dried apricots. You represent what began to smell stupefying when you are surrounded by mountains of dried apricots? And how many its grades! Colors from light-honey, to almost brown, one million shades. As it all is calibrated - wonder. And here so everything is on sale. A hill is less only at spices. And how many their different! I want to remind that in Leningrad then elementary spices should be “got“. Bell pepper, cinnamon, vanilla, carnation - nothing it on open sale was though in each house reserves of spices were not translated. And so at spices I then just stiffened - could not cope with feeling of unreality of the events. (Almost like in a dream - products in bulk, but there is no money).
Still it is necessary to consider that in our markets degree and a way of ripening at fruit and vegetables often absolutely others, than in the markets as close as possible to fields, bakhcha, beds and vineyards. Our option is brought most closer to models - beautifully, but is tasteless. Not that it is absolutely tasteless, but a difference - huge.
Melons with water-melons are laid out by such mountains as if they were put by giants. And ranks with mountains of grapes - about - about - about - about!
And here long I went among all this magnificence, these mad volumes, this extravagance, and brutal appetite rose at me. The reflex - in the market is it is impossible - tries to suppress this appetite. And here from where - that between ranks pulled such bewitching spirit that even the head began to spin. On a smell came to a source.
Picture oil! Under a small canopy there is very tall, an athletic build an Uzbek in a snow-white cook jacket with the rolled-up sleeves, mixes in a huge cauldron just made pilaf. The show seemed some ritual, bewitched. Close three chipped terrible tables with the same terrible mixed chairs settled down. The sheet of paper where it is handwritten is attached to the small counter covered with the old faded oilcloth: “1 river“. Laconically. For those times it was the sum rather big - in institute eatery on this money it was possible to eat the first, second, salad and compote. The type of aluminum worldly-wise bowls and the same spoons to them did not inspire optimism. But having very felt hungry. I reflected.
The people began to be brought up to a cauldron, all greeted the cook and with each other. When I saw the woman with two children who got in line for pilaf, the last doubts disappeared. Having given sberezhyonny ruble, I was hit in hands a bowl of the fragrant smoking pilaf with the most delicate mutton, such beautiful and tasty what any more never in life I managed to try.
I came back along other ranks, full, kind. Again attractive smell. Well what you will do! This time smell of svezhevypechenny flat cake. It`s cool! I will buy it surely, on the plane I will peck. I approach the tandoor, the next portion of flat cakes is spread on a counter. I already got behind a lean purse. And here my look fell to the woman who kneads dough. Very interesting way: she sits on the earth, on some easy laying, almost in Turkish, a dress national with long sleeves, the head is covered and the person, excepting eyes, is closed. In a word, Gyulchatay. One leg is turned in so that it is not visible, and the second - from a knee to a hip is open, and here on this naked white thigh it also kneads dough. Probably, such way is not worse than others at all, but I then to buy flat cakes ceased to want.
So it turned out that, it is simple skhodiv on the market, it is possible to receive such unforgettable impressions that about them it will want to write in more than 30 years.