How to take care of flowers in the house?
Skilled flower growers follow certain rules. One of them - to put pottery plants on the lightest place as for their normal development, magnificent blossoming sufficient illumination and duration of light day are necessary. However to the majority of plants in the spring and in the summer not life at a hot southern window, the midday heat of the sun is contraindicated to them, but especially favorably morning and evening sun. The beginning fans - flower growers arrive differently and argue so: to my palm tree or a geranium it will be good on a high support in the center of the room.
Can do it to someone and it is convenient, but only not to plants. It is bad when they are forced to huddle in a twilight, at a lack of light sooner or later stalks will be extended, will be bent, will hang, flowers will fade, will lose grace... Illumination in any room is distributed very unevenly, with removal from a window it sharply falls. Experts defined, for example, that in the small room with one window illumination on a window sill makes 40% of external (street) illumination, and in three meters from the   window; - only 5%. Even in the room of 6õ4 m in size with two windows illumination in the center only of its 5 - 10%, and on corners reigns a gloom - light in comparison with street illumination no more than 1% there.
Means, ornamental plants it is necessary to have against windows, and not further, than in 1,5 m from them; at the left and to the right of windows at a wall, in piers where there is enough light. In “ superficial “ - not really dark corners it is possible to place only the most shade-enduring: aspidistra (“ amicable family “) filodendrona, kliviya, ficuses, poecilophyllous begonias, cissus Antarctic, some ferns, arrowroots.
Photophilous succulents - juicy plants (an aloe, gasteriya, gavortion, crassulas, cactuses), and also the blossoming azaleas, krinuma, Hippeastrums, hand bells (“ groom and bride “) roses, fuchsias, svinchatka (plumbago), callas, koleusa (a color krapivka) establish on window sills or in close proximity to windows on supports and little tables. Ampelous plants with the hanging-down escapes suspend in a cache-pot in the central part of a window, but, of course, not   above; - under a ceiling there is not enough light. Baskets and a cache-pot suspend on Liski which will not be evident as laces or rough cords.
If at you many different flowers gathered and it it is close on a window sill, it is good to make of thin boards a short flight of stairs - a support and to strengthen it sideways windows or to operet about a window sill. On steps place pots with flowers, and photophilous types place in the lower tier of a short flight of stairs, shade-enduring - on the top steps. It is bad when pots with flowers are set up on high cases, there, almost under a ceiling, darkly, besides, plants will be content only with lateral weak lighting. Escapes will be extended to light, will weaken, will become rachitic - unless this decoration of the room!
Even the violets standing on a window sill, geraniums, balsams and other plants are always directed towards a windowpane. The bent copies, one-sided sockets are not decorative. To avoid it, pots should be turned periodically the different parties to light, plants then develop more evenly. But the best way if to install pots a little obliquely to light. For this purpose it is enough to enclose under a pot a wooden bar (or a wedge) that the corner between a window sill and a bottom of a pot made 10 - 15 °. With the same inclination to light it is possible to suspend baskets with ornamental plants. Well, and if nevertheless it is required to put some blossoming photophilous plant to the dark place, for example in a hall, corridor etc., it can quite be made, but only for short time (not further 2 - 3 days). After that it is necessary to move it to the former place again, is closer to light.
All houseplants need to be replaced from time to time as food volume at them is limited to pot size. Young plants are replaced annually in the spring, and old - in several years. For example, palm trees till 3 years replace every year, from 5 to 7 years - in 3 - 4, and 10 years - only are more senior when the tub decays. Need of change is caused by that, cht to the earth gradually there are less nutrients. The part them is consumed by a plant for food, the part is leached when watering. Also physical properties of the earth   change; - water penetration, a moisture capacity, increases acidity or alkalinity of the soil and the pot becomes close for the plant living in it.
Plants mostly hard transfer change therefore often it does not need to be done but only as required. Need of change of an adult plant is recognized by the following signs: 1. The plant blossoms worse, flowers became less, and they became more small. 2. The earth from surplus of roots is squeezed out of a pot. 3. Backs leave a ground opening of a pot.
One of these signs or their set testify to need of change.
Do it in February - March - April before a plant exit of a dormant period or with the advent of the first young leaves. Certainly, sick plants should be replaced at any time, without observing favorable terms.
The flower intended for change is not watered by 3 - 4 days that the earth lump easily left a pot. Lands on depth of 2 - 3 cm skim and throw out. Select other pot with a diameter at 2 - 3 cm more than former. Old pots wash out with soap, scald boiled water, and then wipe with strong solution of potassium permanganate from within. Cover a ground opening of a new pot with a crock (gorbylky up) and fall asleep it for 2 - 3 cm with a beaten brick or pebble, or the washed-out slag with sand impurity, or other material suitable for a drainage.
Now we prepare suitable earth mix for a plant, we fill it a cone (hill) to a half of a new pot. So, both pots for change are prepared. Now in blow of the right hand about a bottom of a pot we shake out a plant from an old pot and scissors we cut the backs braiding an earth lump. Then with the pointed wooden stick it is deleted from below the earth from roots. We cut off the large and decayed roots and we strew cuts with coal dust. Without shaking off completely the earth from roots, we transfer a plant to a new pot, carefully we straighten roots on an earth cone and it is gradually filled with soil mix, shaking and slightly tapping with a pot about a table that there was no blank space left between backs.
About pot walls we condense the earth, then plentifully we water, we mulch the dry earth and we transfer a flower there where direct sunshine, but not do not get to darkness. The replaced plant is usually not watered by 5 - 6 days, but daily spray. Watering is resumed in process of drying of the top layer of the earth and growth of a plant. The cheerful window sill blossoming to you!