How to pick up spirits? Polymorphism and polyphony of
Today the speech about secrets of “structure“ of a smell, or - about a certain way to distinguish qualitative perfumery.
Only cheap “shirpotrebny“ perfumery means consist of one - two “odorous“ components. If toilet “deodorant“ consists of one odorous substance, then and its smell actually will not change after use, and your nose will equally irritate, while will not disappear.
Serious perfumery products - and called “compositions“, consist of many, often of many tens of components, besides, as a rule, natural. One of differences of natural aromatic substances from synthetics - variability a smell. Synthetic fragrance or will not change after the use at all, or change of a smell will be minimum and imperceptible.
Another matter - natural aromatic substances. They, in - the first, quickly disappear. Without use of special additives the natural smelling substances will be felt half an hour - hour, is rare - a couple of hours. In - the second, they very quickly change on air in itself (are oxidized), and the smell also changes. Further, natural components are inclined to react between themselves. An example of similar interaction - wine which the longer costs the becomes better - and everything from - for slow, the hidden interaction of compound components.
usually the rule “the is more senior-the better“ does not belong To perfumery, but also here - mix of many natural smelling substances slowly reacts also in the closed bottle, and after printing the speed of reaction increases in tens of times from - for air oxygen.
At last, nature of the reactions happening in perfumery means will be defined by features of your skin secret.
It is easy to notice to how difficult transformations perfumery means - spirits, cologne and so forth, after the use, especially, is exposed if this means contains natural components.
One more secret of qualitative perfumery - “gradualness“ smells. Natural components after drawing begin to react among themselves - and to disappear (they reacted earlier, in a bottle, but here everything occurs quicker from - for oxygen access). This most difficult transformation leads to the fact that the same perfumery means will smell differently in different timepoints.
Many perfumers allocate to three stages existence of a smell, or as still tell - three notes . The first note exists several minutes - temporary borders are very conditional here, everything depends on components, on their combinations, on temperature of the room, body temperature or other surface on which applied perfumery and so on. It is possible to consider that the first note differently called by “head“ , lasts to a quarter of hour. During this time the most unstable components disappear and there are main, fastest transformations of a smell from - for interactions of components.
The second note a smell in a different way called by “warm“ , will proceed several hours. Here we cannot accurately define time too, we will conditionally accept - a two-three of hours. Throughout a “warm“ note the perfumery reflects the main plan of the master - the perfumer, it also is a “company“ smell of this brand of spirits or cologne. During time of the second note components of average firmness disappear and the main quantity of metamorphoses of a smell comes to the end.
At last, the third note - also called “shleyfovy“ or just “loop“ , and sometimes - “basic“ or “main“ . During this note you will feel the most resistant components of a perfumery product - and results of the last, slowest reactions of interaction between components. The third note will sound - depending on structure of perfumery and other conditions - to a polusutok, and even about one days, is rare - longer. Duration of the third note depends on whether were added - and how many - the special low-flying components intended especially for extension of a smell such as musk or ambergris. These components are very expensive and in “shirpotrebny“ perfumery means are replaced with synthetic analogs - with respectively deplorable results.
You already know enough to consider yourself as “expert“ on smells. Next time I will describe the best way of the choice of perfumery. Do not pass!