Russian salad. In what class essence of a metamorphosis of favourite salad?
you eat pineapples, hazel grouses chew -
your the last comes Day, the bourgeois!
In the movie “Kean - a Dza - a Dza!“ the hero who appeared instead of an epicure on the useless planet (and about it the narration is lower...) tastefully so pulled on the wife: “Lyusenka, native, an infection, these were given you … macaroni …“. These hazel grouses with pineapples were given to proletarians of all countries! Well and to wet a burzhuin in bathroom equipment and to heat in the sewerage for hazel grouses! That more with pleasure than carrot nobody edat anything...
All my light experience of life in the country of Councils is anyway connected with Russian salad salad - a symbol of conviviality and patriotism. Besides, at Soviet own pride - a table “not huzhy“, than at the neighbor bewitched! When sovok wellbeing ripened as barley on an eye, green peas became the integral can of a festive set at all decent enterprises. There the jar of mayonnaise, shprotik and any such chastik in tomato sauce was applied. With the great May Day, citizens: the Russian salad is guaranteed to you! And without what “Russian salad“ a holiday?!
Russian salad salad was and remains for me (and, probably, for many, vouchsafed to live in those unforgettable times) a symbol of sovok wellbeing. Also I ate it for lovely soul. And itself simply prepared by Tazy: peas are treasured, eggs, kartofan, doctor`s a piece, onions, carrot, an apple and cucumbers. And here with cucumbers the Soviet person had a choice: if winter holidays, then cucumbers went salty or marinated, and in summertime it was possible to crumble a fresh cucumber also. And then already salatik differently was called at restaurants: “Summer salad“. From where a fresh cucumber in the winter - that? We are not burzhuina what fresh vegetables in a vnesezonye to burst...
At restaurants in the winter to Intourists burzhuazneyshy Russian salad salad was served under the name “Soviet“, and in the summer - under the name “Summer“. This salad under a nickname “Russian“ removed to a zabugorye. And who thought that Russian salad salad import? No, it is Russian and is because was born and got accustomed in Moscow gold-domed. Europe that salad did not know. However, newborn salad also close did not lie with democratic Soviet “Russian salad“.
Me as to the specialist, in general the metamorphosis of the name of a dish is interesting. The dish “salad“ generally comes from a plant salad in all forms and shapes: both salad - a rastrepka, and cabbage lettuce. Like lettuce. That is the dish means existence of lettuce leaves as bases. As it also is in the European and American cuisine: take the same “the Greek salad“ or “Caesar“. In a basis - juicy leaves with addition of other fresh vegetables. I think that it is exclusive on scarcity of life, the noble word “salad“ began to belong to any medley of thermally processed products. (Though if kus - kus or tabul you will call Arab salad too, the Arab categorically will not understand you). Still paradox: our favourite vinaigrette too in fact salad - a medley, but the name received “vinegar“ from French.
Once upon a time there was in Moscow in corpulent sixtieth years 19 - oho centuries the French cook Lucian Olivier. It kept restaurant under the name “Hermitage“ at Trubnaya Square. The institution was solid, clients not lapotny. In “Hermitage“ edat the nobility, merchants and if which of commoners, then already well-founded. Also went to Lucian to his specialty Russian salad salad. Gilyarovsky edat this salad at Lucian and licked fingers. And now I will tell you what is Russian salad salad. It is not that sepulka for a sepuleniye at all that we edat and we eat. (I advise to bite zayedka some before further reading).
Here hazel grouses burzhuinsky. No, friends, not doctor`s sausage or even (to whom will carry) chicken meat boiled. Namely the pulp of two boiled hazel grouses is pinched by appetizing pieces. And here veal language (not voloviya or, upas my God, pork!), namely the very young uvula dairy a telenight is accurately cut by cubes. Send the person to Yeliseyev as Molokhovets wrote. Send behind a quarter of pound of pressed caviar. Yeliseyev has a caviar any. And now will need salad - lettuce. We take a half of a head of cabbage and beautifully we plane it on strips. (It to a question why this dish nevertheless salad was called - there lettuce leaves were present!)
Crayfish - about a letter P nonsense. It can do at the Soviet power crayfish were found in the rivers only in the rare months containing a letter P in the name. Crayfish were found in imperial Russia all the year round. Take 25 crayfish from the same Yeliseyev (if small and today, then on three, and yesterday, but big, then on five), and cook them in beer as it is necessary at Orthodox Christians. We clean 25 crayfish tails, and to a rachya we will cut meat in large cubes. That it was visible that crayfish are there!
And here I have a hitch: it is necessary for salinity of salad half-banks of pickles (marinated kornishonchik, i.e. cucumbers with a ladies` little finger growth). With a half-can always a problem, truly? What banks - that were? The recipe was kept a secret by the quirky Frenchman and died together with it. Restored it only in 1904. For fifty years the size banks could change. So we will be guided by common sense - salad has to be salted at the expense of pickles and capers. It we need only a quarter banks. I know from experience that capers tiny are not packed up in big banks - hundred-gram at most.
What we will definitely not get, so it is of soy paste Kabul . And there was such paste, and did not disturb anybody. Therefore I would swindle so: sprinkle a little salad soy sauce. I use Tamari`s brand - in it a sodiuma less. Soy sauce will give salts too. There are fresh 2 cucumbers further , despite of a season. And five of hard-boiled eggs there. Let`s stir this bourgeois product and we will dress with provencal mayonnaise . There has to be this Provansal by all means on the French vinegar number one and on the purest olive oil. Now we have Russian salad salad on a table. Real. Original.
And now we will argue about class essence of Russian salad salad. Of course, it is possible a hazel grouse and pressed caviar to replace with boiled potato, and crayfish and veal language on green peas. The belly will be full. It is also possible instead of thin Ai or foamy “Madam Clicquot“ to drink self-races or just brazhka. Whatever to drink if only knocked down. Only a brazhka and self-race to call not a trace the sacred word of Ai or Madam Clicquot.
Let Armenians do some to brandy of high quality, but let do not dare to call this drink cognac. Cognac is made only in the province Cognac. Point. Champagne - only in the Province of Champagne. Point. All the rest that hisses and foams, it is necessary to call sparkling wine. There will be no our salad rakovo - payusny if to call it Russian salad salad. Let it will be though “Summer“ though “Soviet“ though “Russian“. But real “Russian salad“ will be only on Lucian Olivier`s technology. Do not call in an eurogroin the Russian kvass the Russian lemonade or to the Russian Pepsi. And write: Russian Kvas.
We do not want to pay attention to it not to muzz in vain, and I invite to think readers what Russian salads made with the Russian people. Were called at first Moskovia, then Russia, then the Russian Empire. But the people were always called Russian. Point. Then modifiers and - la Olivier came, and these Russian people somehow sepulno began to be called: Soviet all became. You imagine that in these times of troubles at russko - the Soviet person was not even the Central Committee of Communist Party. In all republics it, an ulcer, was, and in its Russian Federation was not. As if napryamk of the Central Committee of CPSU. And now there are no Russians at all - all became Russians and Russians. That is, as if, understand, citizens of the Russian Federation the Russian nationality. Now follows as about to speak: I am the Russian Russian? Or how? Then the Russian citizen of Latvia, say, should speak I is the Russian Latvian? Same “Russian salad“ some... Though the sepulka is also the device for a sepuleniye... And in it its class essence.