Flappera, a cracker, coquettes - who are they? The woman and fashion of
It was a jazz era. An era of changes and at the same time an era of a decadence as will call it later. “Roaring“, “gold“, “mentally ill people the twentieth“ - quite so characterized the second decade of last century and, it is necessary to tell, not without the reasons at all. The people tired of gloomy paints and sounds of war were carried away towards to the new life filled with new emotional experiences, impetuous fun and the attracting paints. Everyone tried to live to the full extent as if he had a gut feeling that the world is on the threshold of new tests.
The twentieth years it is possible by the right to call an era of the new woman, of femme fatale . Having lost a considerable share of the man`s population, woman during war, began to master new, unusual it professions hitherto. And after professions they began to be an expert also in purely man`s hobbies. Cars, sport, aircraft, binge and smoking - all this ceased to belong to men.
The new woman, the woman - the flapper, on an equal basis with all began to take an active position in social life of society. In the English-speaking world of the women leading a bohemian life began to call of “flappers“ from the English verb “to flap“ - to clap. Vulgarly similar name is for certain unknown, from where, actually; one of options reports that, perhaps, such nickname was connected with the clapping sounds which were made by women when walking. The matter is that expensive footwear, and for prevention of its damage to women in the twenties became fashionable it was necessary to put on shoes with a heel some kind of rubber galoshes which some ladies did not work carefully to clasp and therefore when walking published cottons. But it only one of assumptions. Russia called such women differently - coquettes, crackers or eccentrical maidens.
Flappera were authentic the embodiment of that time. They did not feel sorry for either forces, or money for the appearance and did not see other investment of capital. Flapper had no age: the new fashion on a mad rhythm of life eulogized a youth cult. Women are coquettes as mentally ill people drove on cars, took alcohol in large quantities, smoked cigarettes in long mouthpieces and opium and, of course, danced to exhaustion under mad rhythms of a fashionable Charleston. To replace the ample bodied maidens tightened in a rigid corset the image of the woman - the boy, the fatal beauty of silent cinema with a short hairstyle the page, a flat breast and a defiant make-up came.
Short hairstyles rushed into the female world promptly and irrevocably. In the twentieth hats of cloche became fashionable (bells) which did not suffer the streaming ringlets in any way, but perfectly looked on the close-cut heads. Such hat often reached the eyes and in order that though to see something on the way, women had to go with slightly raised head.
As for a make-up, the woman - a flapper considered a duty to be painted most brightly and provocatively. One of accents surely became on eyes. As a rule, women applied vaseline which, in their opinion, added to eyes the intriguing gloss on eyelids, and applied dark shadows which were densely shaded on it, creating effect of eyes of “Piero“. Such eyes incredibly brightly looked on the face bleached by powder.
Lips of claret or cherry color were the second obligatory accent. Lips were drawn, as a rule, in the form of a heart or “onions of the cupid“. There was even a special machine (is similar to a clothespeg) allowing an upper lip to get the appropriate curved form.
Speaking about appearance of the girl - the flapper should be mentioned new fashion on androgyny. If earlier corsets were used to emphasize a waist and a breast, then now neither the first, nor the second was held in high esteem. Designers created corsets which dragged away all “unnecessary“ cambers and did the woman absolutely flat. And those who were not able to afford to buy a similar corset hardly redressed a breast. In the so-called code of a flapper there was a hearing that the long thread of pearls which were also very popular has to lie on a breast absolutely exactly, passing any bends.
Coco Chanel, whose triumphal ascension began in the twentieth, cardinally changed fashion, entered into use of women of a detail of man`s clothes. Besides a new direct silhouette of dresses, it was possible to see trousers, jackets and vests on women. A bit later, in 1926, great the couturier created LBD (little black dress) which became indispensable attribute of any female clothes. In addition, exactly Chanel made accepted and popular any carrying costume jewelry.
Dress length the twentieth began to aspire to a minimum, baring female legs. At this time traditional dense stockings were succeeded gentle silk, and pages, being an intimate detail of clothes before, became the real work of art. Thorough women of fashion chose lacy pages, with an embroidery, decorated with bugles. Pajamas which, by the way, some fashionistas that time used even for issue began to become fashionable. It is possible to tell that women of fashion “roaring the twentieth“ rushed from one extreme to the other, putting on long, short, tightly clasped, shamelessly bared. It was impossible to define precisely, this lady for evening entertainments put on or, on the contrary, undressed.
Modern historians of fashion define style of the twentieth years as mad eclecticism. John Carter`s excavation brought to the world hobby for an egiptomaniya, the Russian seasons of Dyagilev left an impressive mark on fashionable motives too. Besides all this, in fashion continually sliped elements of the Chinese culture - a kimono, umbrellas, decorative doggies. It is possible to tell that the fashion of the twentieth represented itself the real solyanka from elements of different cultures.
It is necessary to pay tribute to those great and awful changes which happened in a short interval between the most terrifying wars, “gold the twentieth“, undoubtedly can be considered as an era of formation of fashion in the form in which we are lucky enough to see it now. The fashion always comes back and who knows, perhaps, next year we will put on hats and stockings again, and we will begin to dance under sounds of the nervous jazz.