Jeans for the developed socialism or How fabric became tempered?
If Lenin could see and estimate consequences of the activity, he, perhaps, would write something it seems: “Developed socialism there is the highest and last stage of socialism. It is characterized by the developed system of total deficiency of consumer goods“. And, as always, it would be right.
During an era of the developed socialism (1971 - 1991) deficiency was total. It belief and the truth served party in deduction of the people in obedience. “Make love, but not war“, - called hippie in America while Russians could tell: “Get deficiency, but do not poke the nose into other people`s affairs“. And we got who as could. One established relations with the necessary people in various distributors of the vital benefits, others tried “to hurt a denga“ to do shopping in the black market.
Jeans were a symbol and a criterion of deficiency, undoubtedly. Them, unlike other scarce goods, say, of women`s boots, never “threw out“ in free sale. It was impossible to register in any turn “behind jeans“ as happened to cars or apartments. Even in the Berezka shops trading for currency there were only some left unfinished whether French, whether Belgian Konvair jeans. But the people respected only three “firms“: Li, Vrangler and, of course, Levis. For a half-rank some Li - Cooper was lower.
No other firms were recognized. It were severe and ascetic times when beer was two grades: “beer is“ and “there is no beer“; cheese of three grades: Russian, Dutch and redneck; bread white and black. Our mentality did not maintain more than three grades of jeans.
Still it is unclear from where they undertook in the country, these jeans. Trip abroad was blocked almost tightly, both on number “exit“, and by quantity of the goods allowed for import. And nevertheless, many walked in jeans. And on a second-hand market they could be bought almost always. Only the price limited: at the beginning of the described period a monthly salary of the engineer, in the middle - one and a half - two salaries.
It is necessary to tell that jeans not by present criteria were appreciated then. From Gucci nobody and began to look at modern jeans. There were no “acid washed jeans“, any frills and labels in number of ten pieces. All this came then, as well as the shameful word “livays“ which is started up by some “experts“ on English. Lightnings on hip-pockets were a maximum of chic. Jeans were darkly - blue “indigo“ color, had to “stand in a corner“, that is to be sewed from firm as a cardboard, fabrics, and were obliged “to be sawn“, that is to be wiped in process socks, getting a magic blue shade. Put on them for the first time often wet and by means of soap. Having dried on the owner`s body, they accepted the necessary size.
To walk in new jeans was torture. But it were sweet torments, all looked at you with envy and approval at the same time. Any girl was yours - to these, and still the constant pressure of rough fabric upon genitals, positive dynamics of growth of the population those, in general, poor years in many respects speaks.
That who had no jeans was second-class citizen. As a last resort, it was necessary to have jeans Indian (Milton), Polish or Czechoslovak. They, however, “were not sawn“ and did not stand in a corner, and when walking shamefully fluttered the lower part of a trouser-leg. They were starched, but it badly helped; gave color, though blue, but some grayish.
But our talented people learned to make jeans which for ten steps was not to distinguish from the presents. The technology of this production is worthy the detailed description.
In - the first , fabric. In shops the rag under the humiliating article “jeans“, by the way, very cheap freely was on sale. At it only weaving of threads was jeans. Neither on color, nor on density it had nothing in common with noble “denim“. But fabric this was cut pieces on three meters (so much potrebno on one jeans), painted in a big tank with aniline dyes (blue or the electrician), well washed out and carefully smoothed. The turned-out piece very reminded new American jeans on color. The only difference - a wrong side of the same color, as the person, whereas at branded jeans a wrong side light.
In - the second , from the received fabric were sewed by jeans, carefully observing and copying all numerous features of the American consumer goods: double seams, brick color of a thread (threads painted too as was not to get the necessary color). Labels, buttons and rivets bought in the market in Malakhovka where local handymen learned which - to what. Nobody at the same time attempted to forge concrete firms of the Big Three, the difference would be too obvious. Each “samopalshchik“ created something the, depending on what accessories he managed to get. Jeans in general turned out as if.
In - the third , ready trousers it was necessary to impregnate that they “stood“. I suspect that recipes of impregnation were also various, but most often it was rosin. It was dissolved in acetone (gasoline left too strong smell, but applied also gasoline) and immersed a product in solution. Then, without wringing out, allowed to flow down and dried in the fresh air. Every other day - another remained only a slight pleasant smell of rosin, and ready “jeans“ were not stirred a flare, but moved a uniform monolith together with a leg.
Bought in flight. Often sewed to order so about any deception the speech was not, and the buyer perfectly knew that the beret “samopat“. But it cost 25 rubles, and “firm“ on a second-hand market - 125, feel a difference. And for ten meters not to distinguish...
On the eve of the Olympic Games - 80 the real denim, an import devout denim, heavy and dense began to be available for sale. Instantly production of decent labels developed, there were underground shops, and jeans already began to forge “under firm“. Then there were first domestic Novelty jeans which, without philosophizing crafty, equipped with decent labels and rivets and gave out for the American. And then reorganization as mushrooms came, cooperatives for “cooking“ of jeans expanded, earned the Riga market, and not boiled dzhinsa was a thing of the past.
Well, and borders opened later, Poles, then Turks with Chinese appeared suddenly at first... And nobody now remembers what they, the real jeans.