For what so took a dislike to poor “Russian salad“? Let`s weigh all pros and cons of
Every time when the speech comes about a figure, diets, a healthy lifestyle and that the most interesting, about a sovkovopodobny way of life, think badly the old, kind, adored by me Russian salad salad. And high-calorie - that it, and fat - that it on a waist and hips of lovely ladies accrues, and proletarian, and in it after plentiful New Year`s libations it is inconvenient to fall face down …
time to discredit myths and to return former glory unfairly to the offended most worthy “Russian salad“ Came.
For a start it is a little from the historical background, and “on sweet“ the recipe of my grandmother on production of the above-named salad which carefully passes from father to son in our family and, I hope, will be pleasant also to you, the captious reader.
The rich Moscow merchant Yakov Pegov and the cook - Frenchman Olivier captivated during war with Napoleon and and settled in Russia, bought a ground and from “the Afonkiny tavern“, the known pub, arranged the first-class French restaurant.
In V. A. Gilyarovsky`s sketch “On the Pipe“ is narrated in all details about creation in 1860 - e years of a tavern “Hermitage“ at Trubnaya Square. The building of a tavern remained, it is the house 14 on Petrovsky Boulevard, a corner of Neglinnaya, now in is mute there are a publishing house and theater.
The public gathered chosen, with excellent taste to a chrevougodnichanye here, and new salad monsieur chief - cooks became instantly popular.
Alexey Borodin: “The boiled thoroughly fillets of the hazel grouses and partridges shifted by layers of jelly from broth were its part. At the edges of a dish boiled crayfish tails and small pieces of language lay. In the center the design was decorated by potatoes gorochka with gherkins and slices of boiled eggs as ornament.
Once Lucian Olivier noticed that some Russians ordering this dish broke all plan at once, mixing a spoon all design, and with big appetite absorbed this tasty weight. The next day the enterprising Frenchman mixed all components and densely sauced“ .
“The recipe was secret which Olivier carried away with himself in a grave (it is buried on the Vvedensky cemetery in Moscow, in 2008 its grave is restored). For the first time it was published in P. P. Alexandrova`s book “The management to studying of bases of culinary art“ of 1897 of the edition.
Here the structure of the real salad (the truth, already the period of its decline - 1904) recreated on memory by one of frequenters of restaurant:
• meat of two boiled hazel grouses,
• one boiled veal language,
• 100 grams of black pressed caviar,
• 200 grams of fresh salad,
• 25 boiled crayfish or 1 bank of lobsters,
• half-banks of very small marinated cucumbers (pickles),
• half-banks of soy kabul (spicy sauce),
• two the crumbled fresh cucumber,
• 100 grams of capers (a plant at which pickle spicy flower kidneys),
• small cut five pieces of eggs hard-boiled“.
The Provansal sauce invented by talented Olivier (the French vinegar, egg yolks and pound of salad olive oil) impacted to salad refined relish. They say that the cook cooked sauce always in a room behind the closed door and added to it some magic seasonings. This secret is covered with a gloom and hardly when it is solved.
For many years ingredients changed depending on tastes and purses of his creators.
In France the dish did not get accustomed. “Here love very similar fish salad - “íčöóŕń“. Instead of meat take fish. Add eggs, potatoes, carrots, green peas and an asparagus. Rybno - vegetable salad dress with the mayonnaise mixed with a green basil and a root of ginger. Put a little cucumber“ . (www. gazeta. ua)
But in Russia, the country where almost on half a year cold and there is a lot of - a lot of potato, quite to itself got accustomed.
What only in “Russian salad“ on my memory was not strugat. Carrots boiled, pickles, cucumbers fresh, green onions, onion, sausage Doctor`s, ham overseas can (straaashny deficiency was, in orders gave), chicken domestic (then at restaurants Capital salad appeared) and even apple.
My grandmother trained him so (and bequeathed to me).
We take a bowl with a flat bottom. We cut rather rather big cubes boiled beef, it is better good. I, however, in this place not often follow precepts. I use what got, that is that in soup cooked. Very conveniently: both the first, and the second at the same time.
Now most important! A flat bottom - a necessary element of process as all ingredients have to keep within on a bottom equal small groups. Small groups are measured by amount of meat. The sizes of cubes, respectively, too should not differ strongly.
The hard-boiled eggs, salty cucumbers (strong, tasty it is also desirable barrel from the familiar grandmother from the local market), potatoes, tinned peas (Bondyuel or old kind Hungarian is better from firm). We salt - we pepper to taste, mayonezy. Salad has to become impregnated! And - voila! - welcome to a table!
I, however, very much love “Russian salad“ in grandmother`s option. Often I train him. In different places I do not think of calories and fatty deposits because I consider that them (calories and deposits) existence will not spoil appearance of such picture of beauty in any way as I.
Appetite pleasant to all!