Where there is a world`s end? Ushuy, Tierra Del Fuego
the Portuguese guides who brought us my mayeshny cruise from Lisbon to the most western point of Europe, Cape Roca with pride drummed to us the overseas word “ to the terrafena “ (terra - the earth, fine - the end, edge). There, speak, some fertile vectors magnetic pass and charkas open. But I had enough time personally on to look on the left - to the right, to fotnut, get in a queue in a toilet, to be noted on - fast (as if the bus without me did not leave!) and to receive the Certificate on visit “ To Terrafina “. Eh, Europe - Europe...
Ancient ancestors of Portuguese, seeing off the ships in the sea, considered that to the west of this cape there is nothing any more, except the boundless ocean. And it turned out that real “ to the terrafena “ is - that in South America, there, where came - descendants of desperate Spaniards - Portuguese. Here where the real end of the earth - Tierra Del Fuego! Not for nothing the highest hills of Rio and Lisbon crown the identical, stretched hands in broad embraces majestic figures of Christ Redeemer. Though Argentineans cunning add: “ God - everywhere, but admits he only to Buenos - to Ayresa “. And I agree with them. Exactly there, in Argentina, its reception.
And now imagine on the card a triangle of South America with a sharp tail down, to Antarctica. Chile and widely sprawled Argentina agree on the edge of this tail the extended yellow snivel from the North on the South of the continent (the country of the world, the eighth in size!) . And the edge it is separated from the continent Strait of Magellan, and this edge is called Tierra Del Fuego. It is geographically correct to call this mad piece of sushi the island OST. And the most southern edge of this island - a dog guarding the continent - Cape Horn behind which there is no earth any more: there violence of damned space between the fiftieth and roaring sixtieth latitudes, and behind it - silence of the Antarctic ices. Bezzhizniye, deficiency, infertility, bezzvery...
If the Lord`s reception with a red carpet directly to Paradise is in Buenos - to Ayresa, then doors to Hell is the city of Ushuaya on the very brink of Tierra Del Fuego. The most southern of all cities on the edge of Earth. Not for life the city was founded - for eternal torture, for penal servitude. Imagine the city which grew around a huge jail, and nobody except katorzhan and their security guards on Tierra del Fuego were not any more. To Tierra del Fuego took hundreds of years of the most inveterate criminals. To run as from Alcatraz Island, both from Tasmania, and from Tierra Del Fuego - it is impossible. Strait of Magellan, besides...
These dashing people also became pioneers of severe Tierra Del Fuego. The prison was closed (present!) only in 1947. And children and grandsons katorzhan shackles grew into these rocks and equipped the nice port city with the decent industry, fishing fleet, fine university developed by infrastructure, a high standard of living of the population. Now the population Ushuai about 70000 people, and in the summer as now, the population twice increases due to tourism. All Antarctic cruises begin in Ushuai`s port with calling for Drake Strait to the Falkland Islands, island South Georgia, islands of group Southern Antilles and Sendvichevy and, actually, on Is southern - the Shetland Islands. (On the Russian island of Bellingshausen, naturally, do not pushchat, but also not nadot - they lost money of tourists rich. Do not need, stalot. And that thank God).
But it is only this way promised in brochures, and the weather itself defines a route of liners. Here quite recently the iceberg torpedoed the cruise vessel, and nearly two days evacuated opanikevshy passengers from a board. Let there in February the summer in the heat be also considered, and there is always enough extreme in these waters. The wave ground some thin walks there. Liners as matches, in half breaks. Well in these waters only to whales, but it is possible to look at them and without having had wet feet in the Bellingshausen Sea. In an hour of the vigorous course on the passage Biglov near the cape of the Horn. From Ushuai run fast 18 there - the local boats “ Zodiaki “. (By the way, at visit of Cape Horn to tourists grant the Certificate too, and by Ushuai`s mail to them on the basis of the Certificate put down a memorable stamp in the passport - a trifle, but it is pleasant. Discourages to scratch on a glacier wall “ Here there was Vasya “) .
Yes, it is necessary to pay the price for everything, not by us it is told. Whales, cats, lions, penguins, islands of bird`s colonies, beauty of glaciers - even all this miracle be absolutely free, but “ only by plane it is possible to reach! “ if at you are not present 24 - x - 32 - x days for cruise from Rio to Antarctica. And the flight price - wild fatigue from flight in 4 jumps. In San - Paulo under the 40th heats, in Ushuaye - 0 - minus 3. If someone tells me that he loves flights, I offer the flight Chicago (USA) - Ushuaya (Argentina). And we will be are quits. On the last piece, already coming on decrease over the Strait of Magellan, just there is a wish to open a door and to leave: “ Sorry, you do not leave at a stop “ Strait of Magellan? “ And, not me to one, and all amicable team of a board. Got all!
International airport of Ushuai too anything to. The city lies a narrow coastal strip at spurs of the bottom of the Andes. Directly along the Martian mountain runways run. Considering constant heavy winds (here Ushuaya to me as the sister native: too - the city of winds, as well as Chicago!) landing reminds driving the old cart on forest hummocks. Even trees on Tierra del Fuego everything grow as the tumbled-down cable columns keeping only on the wires: at an angle in 45 degrees on a wind rose vector. I will tell about trees later - the National park of Tierra Del Fuego costs the special word.
Frontier guards human - just tsypa: “ Welkom “ and “ Welkom “. “ The Grasia - a grasia “. And here the biocustoms - I still did not face such strogost. Biology crumbs: candies dolgoigrashchy at people on a bottom of handbags tried to discover, baby food - in a garbage can! To be angry or proud? I am proud. Everything is so fragile here, on the edge of Tierra Del Fuego. “ Frazhilno “ as frontier guards speak. Rummage, soldiers.
Here once there lived Indians, strong and hardy, just under these edges were ground. And here white colonists came. Not less strong and hardy, but under Spain - Portugal ground. White remained and where chingachguk? No, the reader, probably all of us - the wrong children - a bacillus at us lethal. After us already nothing moves. And you, mummy, do not arise - buy other baby food, well here, it is direct as in the town of Mukhosransk in Oklahoma. And in general, with a beybichok there was nothing to trudge here. We listened to its decibels from Rio, and in whales it understands nothing yet. However, snub-nosed?
(And I was not right - snub-nosed on the father as since morning settled in unsteady “ Zodiac “ so the whole day with us also prokantovatsya in the rough sea: to see, rocked to sleep the lullabies. But mummy we put off almost at pier - vomited as a cat thin, the poor fellow. Pushchay will have a sleep in hotel about an ustatka.)
Whales if carries, can be seen with probability of times in hundred days. And I am glad awfully that did not see. Paradox: plankton that they eat, to a whale - the benefit, and to us - death. Without hind legs for fatigue I listened to something at biocustoms about plankton, and mentally sent the frontier guard far - far... And it appears, put here what: there is a season when whales are fattened by red plankton. Speak, even color of water reddens. And a trifle like lobsters, shrimps, combs, oysters, generally, all that we call shell - fish - there. Also eats up it on the quiet. To them - that anything. And to us if we regale on such omarchik - a spiny lobster, - death from breath paralysis painful, but, thank God, fast. The anti-pillbox is not known. There is no treatment. Europeans such do not know poisoning: local hvoroba. So well them, whales. I believe that they in the nature are. And pat-a-cake.
Lobsters if in the morning to podshustrit and on the embankment with a basin from number to run, for 20 peso it is possible 20 to bargain pieces. Here takushchy! And at restaurant for lovely soul to you will weld and still a floor - restaurant with personnel it is possible to treat. Crabs of the size of a dish. Combs about my cam. Ah - ah! And speak to me: whales - shmita! Well, bolshaay taaaky fish as Leva from “ Fishings “ spoke.
Also I do not need here, at the world`s end, their well-known Patagonian beef. Here with seafood and so all for me todo buen. And in the evenings, over restaurants... Fry young lambs on coals, drink tart Argentina wine, throw oysters huge on braziers (and a cockleshell as hryas, drops on coals will hiss juice oyster, a voditsa pryano - sea lazaretno - iodide will begin to smell - and whether from a smoke, whether from delight a tear you begin to blink (whether juice oyster salty?!) as cow of a vologodsk!) drink fragrant a mat slowly around from pumpkin bochazhok through a trubitsa. (And a mouthpiece - that for sanitation at it pure silver - Argentina, it seems!) And tango?! Tango at the world`s end... A tango about which Borges told that it is vertical expression of horizontal desire... Thin such cheat! Bad such...
I specially do not describe delights from wild fauna, from islands into which the leg of the person and where animals seldom goes into you zero attention. It it is necessary or to begin to squeal or cry. Not to tell it is all the same is it is necessary to see! And here I will tell about park: only 2 short pedestrian tracks in National park, rare trees and bushes in it, flowers of surprising beauty, odorous insanely, but ask to walk in file and a trace in a trace. Also you know, we go obediently in single file. In it was, perhaps, the strongest delight from Tierra del Fuego - people in single file go! As pingvinchik. As society.
Because it comes on Tierra Del Fuego: our children and grandsons sometime too will want to bend a knee before beauty and mysteriousness of this amazing place here. And we to them did not tread, children! People, went everything in single file? To us it was left and we have to leave to them, truly? Even if world`s end! Because after that there is nothing any more. El fin del Mundo. Doomsday. Not carcasses!