What Tatyana Larina saw Moscow? Let`s pass on first-throned with the Pushkin heroine of
Pushkin loved Moscow. Here he was repeatedly, in this city there lived his friends. He remembered it in the verses. But, perhaps, the poet gave the most colourful descriptions of Moscow in “ Eugene Onegin “.
The old woman Larina carried the daughter to Moscow to find it the worthy husband. Give and we will pass on first-throned together with Larinymi and we will look at the city with eyes of the young girl.
Went to a remote way of Larina in own closed sleigh. To go on post-horses, receiving fresh horses at yamsky stations, was both long, and it is expensive. First of all station inspectors gave replaceable horses going by office need, only then - for received roadside on personal need and that depending on a rank.
A closed sleigh Larinykh was small. Present the big barrel from skin or dense fabric lying in sledge. In it, having muffled in fur capes and fur coats, Tatyana with the mother sat. Behind a back wall and in legs chests and suitcases could fasten, and ahead in the coach box blown by all winds the driver sat. Three tilt carts with house belongings followed a closed sleigh. Went slowly, spending the night at post stations or at acquaintances.
“ But here it is close. Before them
of white stone Moscow,
As heat, crosses gold
ancient heads " Burn;.
K of first-throned Larina approach on the St. Petersburg path. “ Here, the Petrovsky " lock is surrounded with the oak grove;. the Beautiful palace complex and wonderful park remained. Now they are located opposite to city air terminal, and then it were suburbs. To Moscow there were several minutes of a way, surrounded with shaft, it began approximately where now the Belarusian station was located.
“ Went! Already pillars of the outpost
Grow white; here on Tver
the Closed sleigh rushes through potholes.
Flash by a butka, the woman,
of the Boy, a bench, lamps,
Palaces, gardens, monasteries, Bukhartsa`s
, sledge, kitchen gardens,
Merchants, lachuzhka, men,
Boulevards, towers, Cossacks,
of the Drugstore, shops of fashion,
Balconies, lions on gate
I of pack of daws on crosses “.
To the city drove through the Tver outpost. Pushkin noticed precisely, on it the barrier was strengthened between big white stone columns. To a look of travelers the big area with a majestic Triumphal arch in honor of a victory over Napoleon opened. Now this arch is restored on Kutuzovsky Avenue in front of Poklonnaya Gora. Striped boxes in which the budochnik armed with enormous halberds from retired soldiers were on duty were distinctive feature of the similar areas.
Behind the area the Tverskaya - Yamskaya Street began. On it at that time and really there lived coachmen. Houses were low, as a rule, one-storeyed, on two in each yard - one master`s, and another guest for visitors. Here often also the Moscow carriers lodged. Benches on this street were practically not opened. At night on wooden columns the lamps filled with hempy oil were lit.
The street rested against the big square dammed by sledge and vehicles with barrels. Then it was called Triumphal (on it there was the first Moscow arch in honor of the Poltava victory earlier), now it is Mayakovsky Square. The square was very dirty as on it there was a water folding fountain supplying with water part of Moscow. There were watering places for horses.
From the area Tverskaya Street began. Here buildings stood separately. Behind trellised fencings the enormous mansions surrounded with gardens and kitchen gardens settled down, but there were also rather small houses. On the street the Moscow nobility and rich merchants from olden days lodged. The first floors of many houses occupied shops and benches, trade pavilions stood on sidewalks, messengers and street sellers scurried about. The street was close and noisy. Pushkin did not exaggerate, on it it was possible to see not only bukharets, but also camels on whom brought goods.
Before the next square on the right to the street there was a facade a majestic mansion surrounded with a shod lattice with lions on gate. Earlier it was Razumovsky` estate in which the English club for many years was placed. By the way, happening in Moscow, Pushkin dropped in in club to play cards and to have supper. Club cooks were always considered the best in the city. Women in club were allowed only in day of inclusion in honor of crowning of the next emperor. Today in this building the Museum of the contemporary history of Russia.
Ahead there was an area which for us is connected with a name of Pushkin for a long time. Then on it there was Passionate a monastery over which domes big packs daws and crows turned. To the right and to the left the boulevards set with lindens departed from the area. Tverskoy Boulevard was the favourite place of walks of the Moscow noblemen. Near it there were fashionable candy stores and coffee houses.
On the square the closed sleigh could turn on the left and follow further on the boulevard, but it is improbable. The winter road on the boulevard was difficult, on it chains of barrels with water moved, and opposite to Nativity Monastery there was a steep slope. By the way, this place can be seen in V. G. Perov`s picture “ Three “ representing the children carrying a frozen barrel.
Probably, Larina went across the Tverskaya further. In these parts more than once there was also Pushkin. Being under the supervision of police, he was not afraid to come to Zinaida Volkonskaya`s house to say goodbye to the young princess Maria which is going to Siberia after the husband. Now in this house the well-known Eliseevsky shop. By the way, many contemporaries considered that the poet reflected separate lines in Tatyana Larina`s image another decembrist - to Natalia Fonvizina.
Ahead Larinykh had the next square to which there was a facade of the palace Moscow the general - the governor. There was a fire depot with a tower - kalanchy. Today in the palace the City hall of the capital was placed, and the monument to Yury Dolgorukiy became the main decoration of the area.
Undoubtedly, Larinykh had to interest draperies, fashions and jeweler benches which in this part of the Tverskaya was a little. But show-windows then did not do yet so it was possible to admire only signs. Tatyana will visit these shops, but later. And here a drugstore, contrary to the statement of the poet, Larina could see only one, them only on the enormous city at that time was five.
The Tverskaya ended, and the closed sleigh turned on the left. That lengthways Okhotny Ryad to pass by the majestic building with columns - the Moscow Nobility assemly. Exactly here balls - " were held in the winter; fairs of brides “ here Tatyana should meet the future husband soon. In this building and today hold balls and concerts. And ahead there was a new building of the Bolshoi Theatre on which just established the four of the horses carrying Apollo.
Having passed through Lubyanka Square on which there was a water folding fountain, Larina curtailed on Myasnitskaya, and from it into Haritonyevsky Lane called so on church of the Saint Haritonya. At the beginning of the XX century there was here an old wooden house to which, on statements of the Moscow old residents, and arrived Larina.
The way from the Petrovsky palace to Haritonyevsky Lane (11 - 12 km) had to take 1,5 - 2 hours Larinykh. If you are in Moscow, you can walk on “ to Tatyana Larina`s route “. Will interestingly learn places which were described by Pushkin. If not to stiffen for a long time before show-windows of boutiques which and now in the Tverskaya there is a lot of but only to consider sights it is possible to keep within at 4 - 5 o`clock.
Walk interesting to you and pleasant impressions of Moscow of Tatyana Larina.