Perhaps, we will order a corset? Ode to ancient linen of
“... How to hide goddesses love affairs?
Frolicing without drawers and without corsets,
Did they a lot of evil... “
J. Byron, “ Don Juan “
How ordered linen still quite recently, at the time of our great-grandmothers and even grandmothers? Yes the same as, probably, and in a century before: the decision on the order, the skilled worker`s call, specification of the sizes, a style and color - and, actually, the order. The skilled worker was: “ The Dear, you understand, I need two - three new grace, pair of a bustier and semi-grace under a dress with an open back “.
Grace, semi-grace, a bustier - as beautifully it sounded and what beautiful things created skilled workers, just masterpieces: satin or jacquard pink, white, it is gentle - lilac, on stones and small buttons, grace. Descendants of corsets.
Many of ladies of that generation did not carry purchased linen, including it “ bad manners “ and sincerely being surprised to the fact that their granddaughters with pleasure put on the linen unified, not adjusted individually on a figure moreover and without shirts and short pantalonchik.
“ The World obviously went crazy, - one of dear elderly acquaintances sighed. - Well what man can be tempted with a purchased bustier? Or these foolish shorts - bikini? Unless some parvenu... Any secret, any riddle. All identical. The man has to finish thinking what she is a woman under a dress, a shirt and grace. The imagination has to work, haunt it. The man has to worry, undoing a set of buttons, deriving pleasure from this process. And here all at once for show. “
The Victorian this opinion was not shared and ignored by me until to me, as the fates decree, it was not necessary to participate in one of vintage exhibitions - salons. And here... there was unexpected. I was fascinated by beauty surprising by feminity and identity of ancient lingerie of the second half of the 19th century, became in its history, its highest and true culture seriously interested, and this interest accompanies me still.
Ancient cambric and thin linen drawers with a section and lacy frills, the nadkorsetny shirts sewed especially for the waist which is dragged away in a liqueur glass (the waist of the very young girl should not have exceeded 40 - 45 cm in a circle, and the waist in 60 cm - a present standard - was considered simply “ kukharochy “) infinite petticoats, winter and summer, cambric and more dense, with lacy hems which were in itself a great value - them quite often unpicked from an old skirt and sewed to new.
The color linen for the well-educated lady in the nineteenth century simply did not exist. The linen - petticoats, shirts, shirts and drawers - had to be exclusively white, from lawn, a bleached or not bleached cloth with white laces and an embroidery white on white (from here and “ seamstresses “) . Red and motley petticoats, black corsets - all this was intended for ladies of the facilitated behavior.
A dowry the linen was ordered in such quantities that it was enough much for the first postwedding year, till the firstborn`s birth.
Matine - thin cambric jackets - razletayka, sometimes even without fasteners, only on satin ribbons, could be gentle pastel tones - light-blue, cream, light-pink, even in a small floret. The lady, having risen in the morning, covered matine either with a peignoir on seductive or not really a coat hanger, removed a night dense cap, put on lacy morning and sat down to drink coffee - quite often in the company with the beloved or the husband. Well, or the loved husband, in ideal option.
When I stated to one of the girlfriends romantic bases morning a kofepitiya in matine and a cap, that sighed: “ It is necessary, beauty - that what. And I here live more than thirty years on light, and I drink all this time of coffee without cap. Life, consider, was " in vain;.
The bustles doing a figure exclusively womanly quickly enough got out of fashion. Vivienne Westwood repeated a turnyurny subject many times, but the bustle in our mad life did not get accustomed, regularity and slowness of movement is necessary for it.
And, at last, the king of linen of that time - a corset . Daily thing of ladies` use. In 80 - x years of the 19th century production of corsets was a little unified, they were made four sizes, short and long. And before corsets were sewed exclusively manually, individually, sometimes to a concrete ball dress. It was allowed to drag on since fourteen years, seriously need of an utyagivaniye of a waist arose years from sixteen.
The corset allowed to hold a back, hid postural defects, and quite often and an easy krivobokost of future bride - so the husband found this annoying defect only after a wedding. There were also trials from - for similar deception.
So, the lady of the middle of the 19th century - we will tell, the townswoman with the average income - put on by means of the maid in the morning: drawers, stockings with garters, and garters - the embroidered tapes with buckles or hooks, the lower shirt, a corset, a nadkorsetny shirt, as a rule, short and without sleeves, several petticoats. And from above dress! By a lunch it was necessary to change clothes, for dinner - too.
To undress in this way the packed lady, it was required to the man at least minutes thirty. But the imagination it seems worked, and nervousness was present for certain. On memoirs of contemporaries, men of that time somehow coped with an undressing. The highest man`s art was considered to help the lady to put on, lace up and to correctly tighten her a corset. And here not all coped with it.
The jealous husband, leaving in the morning on service, quite could tie in a special way ribbons of a corset of the wife and, having returned in the evening, to check whether the small knot is so tied. And if it was tied not so... oh, My God, what perdyumonokl...
Alas, the modern man is deprived of a possibility of so strict control of morality blessed. Or perhaps it and to the best?
The ancient lingerie of the middle of the 19th century is an indispensable and essential part of literature of that time, it is the whole philosophy of an era, slow, a little prudish, sometimes touchingly naive. Eras when identity of the lady, her morality, its mysteriousness was so appreciated.
Perhaps we will order to ourselves a couple of gration? Or semi-corset? How you think, lovely ladies?