How easy to sew and simply? We cut by rules and without
we already sorted a Number of rules, and now we should find out how by rules and without to win fight for additional centimeters.
Depending on fabric addition cutting can be four types: in two layers, in one layer, “ from a bend “ and combined.
Cutting in two layersSuch way is actual
for mirror and identical details.
Minus: low profitability, remain quite big unused pieces of fabric between details.
Plus: by one movement of scissors find two details at once - right and left.
By the way, there are such cases when identical details it is required much, for example, - their six-blades it is necessary for a skirt - guess how many. On the one hand - than what it is simpler, to put fabric six times, and then once to cut off. I tried to do so, the nonsense turns out.
Such multiple addition leads to the shift of details with obvious consequences: to cut out exactly it turns out only the first two layers, the others remind a trace of the drunk tractor operator.
Cutting in one layerIs suitable
for any patterns, is always used when cutting single details.
Minus: more time for cutting leaves, it is required to lead round and find each detail.
Plus: the only most economic way of an apportion when there is not enough fabric. Open
“ from a bend “
It is irreplaceable for details without median seam, for example, a forward panel of a skirt. At the same time the line of the middle of a detail has to coincide with the line of a bend of fabric. Pay attention! Details with a bend cut out without allowance, the seam in this place is absent.
Minus: is suitable only for details with a bend.
Plus: exact disclose details (when cutting such detail in one layer errors are possible, and cutting in two layers is unacceptable as two halves will turn out).
Is the most universal and ideal: for details with a bend there is a small site of fabric, exactly on this detail, other details of a pattern are most densely displayed in one layer.
Minus: do not have minuses.
Plus: combines all pluses of the ways stated above.
Separate conversation is deserved by such integral part of any cutting as allowances for seams. Usually patterns are given by
without allowances, and they need to be drawn independently. As we already spoke, it is the best of all to cut out paper patterns with allowances at once. It will allow to save up to 30% of time of cutting on transfer of contours of a detail to fabric and drawing of allowances. Especially, can come to mind to shift pattern details. Then allowances should be drawn anew on the lines which are already drawn earlier. Agree, not the most pleasant occupation.
Therefore for saving of time and nerves we take details with already ready allowances and most densely we display them on fabric (we remember the direction of a share thread, pile and drawing!) . Then we take tailor`s pins with round heads and we pin a detail for an allowance to the spread-out fabric. Pins have to be the sharpest and smooth, differently can be holes, and on jersey will go " at all; arrow “.
Detail tricks, carefully we check quantity, smooth surface and paired relationship of details, we are verified with the instruction and - at way!
After cutting we take out pins and we transfer lines of cuts, tucks, pockets. It can be made in several ways.
Copy stitches, or a drag-net
we got acquainted With technology of a drag-net during development “ sewing " language;.
Tailor`s chalk, a pencil or a ball pen
On a paper pattern we cut out a tuck, we put it to a wrong side of the right half, we lead round a tailor`s piece of chalk, then we put the right and left halves a wrong side to each other and prokhlopyvay a palm the place of a tuck. Chalk is slightly showered, and on the left half tuck contours appear.
At an inking the pencil or the handle will require to lead round each tuck, however before drawing a marking it is necessary to check on a fabric scrap whether there are no prints on the face.
“ Magic “ the tailor`s piece of chalkSuch piece of chalk very much is suitable
for fabrics on which there are traces from usual chalk and a pencil. The lines made “ magic “ a piece of chalk disappear in 24 hours or at once at the iron. Such magic imposes the serious obligation: it is necessary to begin to sew immediately, otherwise next morning you will find the fabric without uniform mark.
Summing up the result of the aforesaid, can be noted that the apportion of details in one layer or a combined method gives to cutting special profitability; use of pins for fixing of patterns to fabric and formation of allowances already on a paper pattern.
Such simple receptions give a prize to 30% of time and to 20% of fabric that allows to sew from the bought meter of fabric not only a small black dress, but also a handbag, both a short skirt, and a topic. However, you should not be fond, otherwise the dress will turn out absolutely small, on pleasure to a man`s half of mankind.
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