How easy to sew and simply? Cunnings of cutting
Take fabric by the short edge, lift to the level of eyes and attentively consider. Now turn it, take by other short edge, repeat actions. You see a difference? Is not present? Here and perfectly.
It means that down your fabric is identical, that is details can be displayed in the way “ jack “ i.e. “ head over heels “. Such apportion is most actual for the details reminding a triangle with a slanted corner, for example, a sleeve. In this case the fabric consumption significantly decreases.
Only be attentive ! So-called vorsovanny fabrics , for example, the velvet, suede, fur, velor, a baize, is fine, terry and some woolen fabrics, categorically cannot be displayed “ jack “ , differently color on different sites will differ.
Before cutting of such fabrics surely define the direction of pile - run a hand along an edge from top to down and back. Vorsovanny fabrics are always cut in the direction of pile for giving of smoothness and a loshchenost to a finished product.
Other reef conceal in themselves of fabric with vertical drawing . In this case to save on an apportion “ jack “ also it will not turn out, otherwise one half of a skirt or a jacket will be drawing up, and another - drawing down.
In addition I want to stop on fabrics in a cage: they demand adjustment and combination of elements, otherwise the finished product will look slovenly and kustarno. Adjustment on a cage seriously increases a fabric consumption, at least by 10% of the main size, and the it is more, than the rapport, i.e. the repeating element is more.
Not to be mistaken in the size “ extra charges “ and it is correct to calculate the necessary amount of fabric, it is possible to arrive as follows: to take with itself in shop a set of patterns and already on the place to calculate the necessary length of a cloth.
For usual fabrics, not exacting to adjustment of drawing, it is possible to use also such in the way: to take the biggest sheet, to spread out on it pattern details, and then to measure the occupied space. At the same time it is better to proceed from the most widespread width of fabric in 150 cm
at once Certainly, width of a cloth can be any. For example, flannel fabrics of only 75 cm in width, and it is easy to come to confusion, having calculated length on width 150 which in shop should be recalculated for width 75. Occupation, I will tell you, not for the faint-hearted.
Therefore it is important to look after at first fabric, to study all its parameters, to remember width, and then to take control measurement of the required length. However, at the same time there is a risk to return to shop to “ to shapochny analysis “ when the looked after fabric will already be in hands of other buyer.
Of course, it is better to be able “ approximately “ to estimate the necessary amount of fabric. Only as to learn it? Yes it is very simple! Well, well, not really simply. But it is possible.
It will be required to you:
1. To remember fabric expenses on already sewed models, i.e. to save experience.
2. At first to study the instruction to a pattern where usually specify the required materials and their quantity, and only after that to go to shop.
3. To have an approximate idea that on trousers it is necessary to take one length, and on a jacket with sleeves - one length plus length of a sleeve. Knowing the sizes, it is not so difficult to calculate approximate amount of fabric.
Certainly, approximate calculation can have a considerable error, both in big, and in the smaller party. It is more - not less, and here is how to make two of one meter, you learn a bit later.
If to speak about line of a cut, then it can be share, cross and slanting (not to confuse to a curve). At the same time regardless of the chosen direction of a cut of a detail settle down either lengthways, or across, or obliquely. In other words, should be cut in one direction. the Details found diversely can lead to a distortion and the wrong landing of a product.
When cutting “ on a braid “ all details, irrespective of their appointment, are displayed on diagonal, and, accurately at an angle 45 degrees. The cut at an angle gives unusually beautiful drapery on the soft streaming fabrics, however at the same time is the most account and uneconomical way of cutting and not is suitable for all fabrics. Most often only separate details, mainly office appointment, for example, slanting inlays for processing of cuts proym and mouths are at an angle cut.
For certain from a housekeeping course many remember that fabric has two threads: thread duck and share thread. The basis of fabric is made by share threads, and threads a duck are cross, interweave them between the main threads tense on the weaving loom. In traditional cutting details are displayed on a share thread. The exception is made by some fabrics having specific drawing or the invoice. In this case cutting in the cross direction is allowed.
Usually on ready patterns the share thread is already noted by the special line with an arrow, it is necessary only to arrange details on fabric so that this line was parallel to the edge of fabric or a bend.
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