What route conducts to Magadan?
during my study in Moscow I was on friendly terms with the remarkable girl, Liouba. Liouba, the radical Muscovite, adored pinning up me who arrived from Yakutia, a joke: “ Whether there is life behind MKAD, Ali is not it there? “ I Suspect, she knows that life behind MKAD is, but thinks that only towards the West. Personally saw people only in St. Petersburg and Europe.
Therefore especially for same sure that the gain of Siberia was not, I will tell how to reach to Magadan. But not the plane Moscow - Magadan - it would be too simply, and on the route M56, still known as Kolymskaya Route.
Today`s road connects Yakutsk and Magadan and is the only federal highway on North - the country East. Only it connects Yakutia, Chukotka, Kamchatka and Magadan with other regions. And only it has such tragic story.
The need for the similar route appeared in 20 - x years when broad industrial development of these territories began, gold deposits were found, the entry into seaports of the Magadan region was necessary. Construction of the road “ Kolyma “ it was begun from Magadan in 1932 and was accompanied by great difficulties: it was necessary to cut through a glade through larch thickets, to root out trees, in boggy places to construct drainage systems and to stack logs.
Works were carried out by means of horses, afterwards trucks carried out dumping. And all this in absolutely unusual conditions for construction - even in the summer snow, nonmelting in the depth of a taiga, permafrost, the exhausted workers from among prisoners and a scurvy.
In 1940 in five hundred kilometers to North - the East from Yakutsk the small settlement of Handyga - a distribution point GULAG, division of Dalstroy, the maximum number of prisoners in which could reach 8000 people, was built. This settlement is also my small homeland. Sounds awfully, huh? “ I grew up in the former distribution point of GULAG “.
Actually, today nothing reminds of those awful times any more. Children we rushed on the taiga beginning directly behind the house burst cowberry and blueberry, lapped in taiga ice lakes, bathed in Aldan (inflow of Lena) and felt absolutely happy. And the semi-decayed wooden fences which are incidentally found behind the settlement with a barbed wire only generated children`s horror stories.
When I studied in a class the ninth, geologists of local prospecting expedition organized for seniors a peculiar master - a class and took us with themselves in a taiga. Besides a small gold nugget, we found human bones near the road in this trip. Geologists told that such finds not a rarity. The road represents the poured-out cloth, prisoners “ buried “ directly under dumping and ground waters sometimes take out remains on a surface.
In general, such godforsaken small settlements store memory of a set of historical events and tragedies. And sometimes, with a reluctance, tell about them to people. In 2001 when on Lena there was a large-scale flood, too strongly flooded Handygu. The water which rushed on the embankment lifted and put an old warehouse across the road. When it was sorted, found a note: “ In our crew all have the term of imprisonment of 25 years. In four months the crew earned only one thousand rubles. Bread costs 2 rubles, at meat forgot what taste “ (not literally).
Once long ago we went with parents to the Poplar, small village of reindeer breeders. On the road stopped in the barrack which is hammered together hastily about 70 years ago. Only one room 15 - 20 meters long, in both ends of the room on a potbelly stove. It was the standard project, similar barracks put on the route through each 12 kilometers. It is difficult to present how many such barracks were on the route and how many people lived in them. It is for certain known that in the same place there lived children - prisoners, criminal liability at that time came from 12 years. 34 - 35 sizes found boots in similar dwellings among other finds.
Recently I went home. There were no nearly 10 years there. From Yakutsk Handygi reached on this route. It always how many we lived there, needed under repair. And now too. The roadbed in places is washed away by ground waters completely and turned into the real bog. There are no bridges, through Lena and Aldan it is possible to get over or on the winter road in the winter, or the ferry - in the summer. In the period of an ice drift in any way. Food prices during this period in local shops instantly fly up and become just unreal. Asphalt and bridges, probably, are not even planned, and all got used to scattering from long ago - under car wheels to the stones and columns of dust hanging over the road till some hours in succession.
Surprisingly, but, at least, its some part is expensive earlier, was in perfect tune. Some prisoners were let out on the free settlement along the route, and they on the site watched the road. When “ owner “ (probably, the camp commander) passed on this site and, God forbid, swung its car on a pole, volnoposelenny right there returned in camp.
Today on the route M56 by Handygi foreigners periodically pass. Visit the opened museum where there is an exposition about the American planes which were overtaken from Alaska in the years of war, the fragments of these planes found in mountains; exposition about the route, GULAG and about a path still imperial times, already long ago forgotten. To the foreigners who got used to the ideal roadbed and equal lawns, our route - it is not just expensive to Magadan or Yakutsk. Travel on it - the real extreme travel which they undertake, having sated with comfortable rest.
And for locals the route - usual everyday life. And if it “ extremeness “ they periodically think badly, seldom who remembers its tragic story...