How to make high-quality sound insulation? Part II
“ Hey you there, above! “
we will talk This time about noise which extends on constructional elements and a way of fight against it.
Solid bodies carry well out a sound therefore in panel houses quite often there is a situation when on the first floor it is heard as they on the twelfth knock a spoon in a cup. Monolithic houses suffer from this shortcoming too, however build them on newer technologies, and noise filters on overlappings to a lesser extent.
The main types of noise which are well transmitted through constructional elements it is sounds from interaction with constructional elements: knock of the hammer, footfall and jumps, squeal of a drill in concrete, a roar of the moved furniture. Other noise - loud music (especially shock section), talk, street noise - too are transferred on beams and overlappings, so to speak, “ without quality loss “. And if against a sound of steps the carpet can come to the rescue, then to muffle other noise - a task not from simple.
“ The Small knot will be untied... “
to make high-quality sound insulation against such type of noise, it is necessary to create a mechanical outcome between a surface of the room and the bearing elements. The most successful decision it is possible to call the principle “ the room in the room “ applied in expensive recording studios. A floor, walls and a ceiling are exempted from decorative coverings and plaster coats and pasted over in two layers: the first layer - fiberglass or similar material, the second layer - special mats from basalt fiber. The second layer can be made double for greater effect, however then mats will be required to be sewed by means of a wire. On walls and a ceiling fiberglass can be not glued - there it is not so effective.
On a floor the additional thin coupler (~ 3 cm) is filled in to which metal support fasten.
Is important! Support have to lean only on a thin coupler. Their installation in a liquid coupler is admissible on depth no more than 15 mm.
Then support fasten with cross-pieces. The turned-out design is sheathed from within thick plywood (from 8 to 12 mm) that was where to fix regiments or something else. Then paste over with an ekhopoglotitel - and the room is perfectly isolated!
In the room of such design at a thickness of isolating material of 30 mm (in not pressed state) it is possible even to be engaged in playing percussion instruments … in the afternoon. At night nevertheless it is necessary to stop as even such way cannot give full repayment. But to play a guitar and to sing, without lowering a voice before whisper, it is quite possible, at the same time you will disturb nobody.
If the isolating layer is thinner - that should be forgotten about drums absolutely, but the piano can quite leave. In the afternoon.
“ Small cunnings “.
1. That isolation was even better, it is necessary to make a blousing of the isolating floor materials on walls, about 7 - 8 cm. Therefore when calculating the necessary area make the amendment on these centimeters. Material well proved: does not demand additional preparation, termoustoychiv, it is perfectly scissored by sartorial.
2. Avoid fastening of the isolating material by means of expansion bolt shields or similar krepezhy. It will create contact between “ internal room “ and the bearing design on which noise will easily filter into the room. Everything perfectly becomes on glue. by
So, we buy fiberglass which area is equal to the doubled area of a floor (taking into account a blousing), mats from basalt fiber on the total area of the room (including a floor, a ceiling, all walls). By quantity of layers, this area can be doubled or trebled.
“ You them at a door - they in a window! “
of the Window and a door - most “ wide “ after constructional elements channel of penetration into the house of noise. It is possible to isolate perfectly the room, and badly isolated window will miss a lot of external noise from the street. The same concerns a door to the room, but concerning noise internal.
Isolation of doors and windows - the most complex challenge. Windows pass a sound, transmitting it through glass. The box of a door or a window frame plays an essential role in this process too. A door - the mobile element attached in the rigid way to a box, and a box directly to a wall (a constructional element).
the Only easy way helping to reduce a little noise with the minimum expenses - to veil windows a heavy curtain which width is enough for all surface of a window, from one slope to another with an overlap. The door can be draped similarly.
It is an inexpensive, but ineffective way therefore you should solve: to do full sound insulation, or not. If is not present - at installation of a door lay couple of layers of fiberglass between a box and a wall, make the same with a window frame. Small weakening of noise will be - and if you intend to live in this apartment long, then this small investment nevertheless will save to you a few nerves and health.
If serious isolation is necessary for you, then it is necessary to get a vestibule door, and thickness of cloths of doors have to differ to exclude a resonance. The same treats windowpanes. In a window it is possible to establish additional glass at a small angle to a vertical.
Whetstones for installation of door and window boxes need to be isolated from the bearing design a double layer of the damping material too (for example, the same fiberglass) and to attach “ liquid nails “. Boxes “ to untie “ from walls a strip of basalt fiber. The main thing - to establish them very precisely that the gap was minimum, and it could be covered with platbands or to putty.
I hope, this recipe is useful to new settlers - especially in a new building. Happens so that residents drive not all at once: in one apartment repair already came to an end, and in another only began. I made full sound insulation - and I wake up from an alarm clock, but not from squeal of the Bulgarian of the neighbor.]