Bell ringing of the Rostov Kremlin
Bell ringing of the Rostov Kremlin.
It is less, than in an hour of driving from Yaroslavl, on the bank of Nero`s lake already long centuries, there is an epic Russian city of Rostov Veliky.
Once key shopping center, and a corner of orthodox culture nowadays just lovely to each Russian heart, Rostov Veliky, paints with the special color the Golden Ring and not only refined architecture, but also creative people.
A in it a shortcoming the city does not suffer - here practically every third somewhere in soul the artist or the musician.
It and the handicraftsmen who are giving rise to tremendous enamel - a highlight of the Rostov edge; and bell ringers; and potter`s masters in ceramics and black clay; and just young (or advanced in years) the residents of Rostov sitting on hillocks with an easel and a brush and creating! Because Rostov should be drawn! As well as it is necessary to sing about it! However, for us unusual bell polyphonies can make it with pleasure.
I yet because these century walls and fantastic domes cannot leave indifferent anybody, especially people of art nature. The architecture, apparently, gives rise since the childhood at people to the creative power of beauty and harmony!
Acquaintance to Rostov Veliky begins, perhaps, with Spaso - the Yakovlevsky monastery put in the 14th century. In an architectural palette of temples, walls and towers prevail, generally green and white coloring.
In the center of the monastery yard a beautiful garden with flowers, a small twig, avenues - paths is laid out and nadkladezny pass - a churchlet in which the source beats.
Cold spring water is necessary very much even by the way on the hot and already beginning to burn sun.
Abbey-steads are enclosed on perimeter with big white stone walls on which top tier it is possible slowly, with pleasure to take a walk and admire through round windows - loopholes the Rostov landscapes.
A if not laziness begins to rise up, by a belltower, then you will be generously rewarded by the view of Nero`s lake bewitching and taking the breath away. Huge water spaces open before you in all the breadth, and the walking winds pleasantly will excite cool air of the lake and a smell of water elements!
Three hundred years ago young Pyotr as the future ground for the formed Russian fleet as the option, considered Nero`s lake, however nevertheless stopped the choice on the Pleshcheevy lake that in Pereslavl. Thousands years ago the Russian princes and missionaries from Byzantium literally violently drove
into waters of the lake of Nero of former pagans - inhabitants of local places and christened them.
the lake existed Million years ago too, but occupied then much more extensive spaces.
the Proof to that is at least the fact that the soil Rostov represents, in fact, the most real chernozem and is quite fertile. All reason in sapropel - nutritious silt which covered, actually, all bottom of the lake of Nero as today, and during the far preglacial period.
of What costs at least the head of cabbage weighing more than 10 kg which is grown up in this country!
Despite the quite extensive area, Lake Melkoye and oozy. Depth does not exceed also three meters, but the layer of ground silt can reach 25 meters!
Fishing paradise for fans to look for a tench with a crucian and to hunt for a pike!
From a high viewing belltower - towers will also open a beautiful view of the monastery yard painted with motley June greens and, maybe, on modest city constructions nearby. … And nearby, at once, where white stone walls come to an end, the private lodges in an environment of the plowed kitchen gardens yes of a cow which are grazed on lawns with a juicy grass lead the quiet life.
However the real touch to the city will be just impossible without the Rostov Kremlin!
Is its symbol, its history.
the Central part of the city is silent, cozy, the dvukhetazhna also is laconic.
Moderately dusty, places the decayed, not suffering vanities, it is filled with measured life and original way of the Russian remote place.
Long malls of Gostiny dvor once collected under the roofs and on the areas up to several thousand merchants from all the district of the mother of Russia. To goods was so many that hammered with it all barns up to the top, and merchants stood in line for the right to show all the best silks and furs, caviar and smoked products, a mead yes kvass and it is a lot more - many any differences, and overseas.
Prospered also requisitions for the right to expose the goods on a public inspection.
Still the small street which is bending around malls bears a name Mytna.
I this touching and laconic calm of provincial old times literally “ blows up “ the grandiose and extremely beautiful giant who contrastly grew nearby the Rostov Kremlin!
Dressed in light-a beige and golden armor of powerful stone walls and high towers, it at once forces the traveler to forget about everything that surrounds it; it involves and gives everyone an opportunity to enter on the ferry,
going a course deep into of centuries … Inside the Kremlin shows to us a motley coloring of ancient churches, cathedrals, monarchic chambers, refectories and fragments sadovo - park art. And all this monumental Old Russian beauty is carefully heated in generous beams of the smiling Rostov sun! Practically each original city has
unique creative “a highlight “.
In Uglich and Myshkin is a clay and valenoks; at Novgorod and Pereslavl is a birch bark and irons; Ivanovo has fabrics; at the Goose - Crystal - tremendous glass; Tula has a weapon, gingerbreads and samovars, and somewhere still - still - Gzhel, Khokhloma, clay hand-made articles and ubiquitous nested dolls.
In Rostov is an enamel!
in the museum that nowadays is in a former Gosudarsky Mansion (Red Chamber), to the curious tourist will surely be pleasant and will be remembered for a long time masterpieces of the Rostov enamel.
Halls of the museum will acquaint the guests with history, technology and models of this unique art.
it both the icons striking with the singularity, and portraits, and volume pictures, and even skillful imitation of images under “ photo “! Without telling already about earrings, brooches, a beads and other, other …
A little later, having taken breath from the seen beauty, we plunge in cool and filled with a smell of paints and clays remeslenno - art workshops of the Rostov handymen.
the Black clay dissolved in the most diverse images!
On shelves wait for the turn clay jugs, pots and figures - the penny whistles of all forms and contents ready here - here, from an easy hand of the master, to inhale lives and to turn into a beautiful emotional gift!
the Gift to yourself or to relatives will pour out, by the way, in purely symbolical money, but memory will heat years!
us is waited Then by walk on high walls Kremlin from which slightly at some distance we will see how the wide saucer silvers on the sun Nero`s lake.
we Will walk in that place where on the works monks and in the ancient time went not so long ago, the twentieth century, shot the well-known scene from the movie “ Ivan Vasilyevich … “.
we will make hour excursion on yellowish waters of Nero A bit later and we will behold Rostov from outside what it is. Dissecting water breadth, we will surely meet the island in canes that in the middle of the lake; let`s listen making a din and “ indicating “ to us a way of seagulls who, like dolphins, constantly go at the nose of our steel castle moreover and try to try to discover fish! At last, we will just inhale the cool and exciting smell of waves.
However acquaintance to the trodden paths comes to an end and begins the most important - attempt to really experience spirit of ancient Rostov all the … six feelings and to glance in his soul. Here we push with
heavy oak doors - gate and we get into historical heart of the Rostov Kremlin - on Uspenskogo sobora Square with the Belfry.
Is the most ancient part of the city of Rostov. White stone walls - witnesses of the most joyful and most terrible milestones in city life.
One of the most recognizable symbols of the Rostov Kremlin, Assumption Cathedral, was reconstructed the whole five times. At a dawn of formation of Christianity in Russia on its place there was a wooden temple which was sorted and replaced with stone subsequently. Uncountable distempers, the fires, attacks of the enemy and splits changed initial Assumption Cathedral, and present shape it found about half-millennium ago …
I in later years it still overcame all tests and troubles, but escaped, despite everything. Also the invaders creating a gloom around its walls both cruel governors, and cynical atheists sank into oblivion, but there is no memory of them any, and it, majestic and white stone, costs already whole centuries!
In the time of troubles, in years polsko - the Lithuanian intervention, Assumption Cathedral literally rolled in blood, the citizens who found a shelter in its walls.
With special cruelty the enemy destroyed then Russian lyud: the aggressors who rushed into the temple chopped all who were in it; the layer of blood was on a boot and streams flew down on steps down, on the earth …
in days of the Soviet power the temple was closed by Bolsheviks and was used under warehouses.
Assumption Cathedral is returned Today to Orthodox Christians and opened for pilgrims. to
Nearby there is his coeval - a white stone Belfry - such, the huge sizes the wide belltower topped with three central boards.
is Especially unique a design of this monument - inside it hollow and has several narrow and high windows - loopholes which never passed a sunlight in a belltower, and serve (along with cavities - emptiness) for creation of unusual acoustics during a ring! These “ falseness - loopholes “ also element of an obligatory architectural decor.
As gets light in a construction? To rise upward to bell ringers and “ few electee “ on a high ladder the small windows lighting a way - holes, " help; stuck “ in walls on the rise course up. And not at once - that you will notice them, especially if does not tell who about their existence. Here what technical solutions were embodied in the ancient time by our ancestors - masters!
In later time to the main belfry, attached one more, higher belltower with the main bell - Sysoyem who just strikes with the sizes: weight passes it for 30 tons, and language - for one and a half tons! Zvon Sysoya
is heard even for tens of versts!
will be presented to us Now an opportunity to dump from itself all peel of passing, to leave stuffy vanity of city noise and passions, and to think of eternal, having plunged each string of soul into the penetrating and clearing sound of bells! We part with
and we release quite extensive space on the square, and here for what: already the first notes in a melody of bells flow on us in the marvelous sounding, and then, being reflected about the earth, amplify, making not similar to anything, the concerning and trembling impression in soul …
Such did not happen to be heard before yet! Dozen of bells, great and small, work in uniform ensemble, and skillful bell ringers as if conductors, hold harmony of a sound in hand.
Some seclusion and depth of sounding carry away us these minutes to sources of spirituality Russian and allow to enter waters cool the ancient and concerning Russia Initial.
©2006, Andrey Haustov.
on October 15, 2006]