The reporting from the northern Volga region of
Ancient pearls on Volga
(sketches about 2 ancient original cities of the Yaroslavl edge that stand on Volga)
In the west of the Yaroslavl region, in an upper course of Volga, were stretched two small, but surprisingly warm on the color of the city - Uglich and Myshkin.
You will test the first real impression about Uglich, having already entered on Uspenskaya Square with which the beautiful view of Uglich Kremlin opens. To it the well-groomed avenue stopping at Spaso`s bottom - Transfiguration Cathedral of 1713 and a belltower conducts. The cathedral both outside, and inside is surprisingly harmonious. Walls and side-altars of brightly sand and white flowers get married five green central boards gold crosses. The entrance to a cathedral is opened by ancient frescos of Saints and gracefully twirled metal columns.
The temple strikes with the huge internal space - the understanding comes when you begin to notice total absence of any bearing columns (they are absent just), and the arches keep thanks to a special design of a dome. The beautiful iconostasis, wall lists creating volume effect of bas-reliefs (thanks to special technology of drawing blue and light-opaque paint), fantastically painted top of a cathedral do not leave indifferent anybody.
The neighboring halls of a cathedral are allocated under museum expositions of Old Russian church culture where we will see numerous creations of various icon-painting schools, cult objects and ancient church utensils.
In the neighbourhood from Spaso - Transfiguration Cathedral, almost on the bank of Volga, on the place of death of the tsarevitch Dmitry, erected beautiful small church in memory of this tragic event of the end of the 17th century (“ on " blood;) .
The church is sustained only in red and white tones and topped with blue domes. There is no service here (except for day of death of the tsarevitch Dmitry and Paskhi). It is more likely completely the temple - the museum whose frescos and lists narrate to us about those far tragic events of the Russian history. Race for power did not spare even children and poured out in awful bloody consequences of vengeance where many innocent perished.
In the museum it is possible to see an ark in which bore a body of the young tsarevitch, the Document on investigation of the incident, an ancient church lamp, the bell cast in those days and a church fresco. Yes, and still, the polished floor which is laid out 3 centuries ago from dome-shaped pig-iron plates … by
Directly opposite - the construction of civil architecture - is red the stone Chambers of the palace of specific princes constructed here already a little more than a half-millennium ago. Surprisingly well remained building or, will be to tell more true, the lock is laid out completely from a brick with narrow windows - loopholes.
Here, perhaps, most important sights of Uglich Kremlin. Coming back on that avenue, we will see the numerous dealers in souvenirs waiting us, and far ahead, in a haze, huge white stone Epiphany Cathedral with massive blue central boards grows.
Making the way through malls, it is possible to notice on the right, in park, the small small chapel surprisingly similar to a monument to heroes of Plevna to China the City, and at the left - the wooden carved museum of city life.
Yaroslavskaya Street - one of trunk mains of the city. It is crossed by the small street O. Berggolts on which we are hospitably met by the museum of the Russian vodka. 2 floors! The whole 2 floors, one of integral parts of the Russian original culture devoted, perhaps, - to distillation. Well, how, in Russia and without kind charochka with soul of the prepared vodka? Main thing, that moderately. And the tasting room surrounded with ancient picturesque exhibits where the spoon of a tasty mead yes a glass of vodka under a cucumber will not allow to start missing will take care of it.
The second floor traces history of this hot drink from “ domendeleevsky “ times till these days also incorporates all known grades of the made and made Russian vodka. It is separately possible to see vodka - exotic: the Chinese and other experiments on natural raw materials from snakes, lizards and other reptiles.
It is possible to find both the museum of prison art, and the museum of dolls in Uglich.
However the museum of myths and superstitions of the Russian people can seem more interesting. As well as the majority of the bright and unusual museums of the Golden Ring, it private, created by group of supporters. On the street on January 9th in the wooden two-storeyed house with the small court yard surrounded with a fence the creative workshop of Darya Chuzhoy where at a certain spirit it is possible to steep in cool as the Po River I will wipe, the pagan world of superstitions, fortune-telling, legends and myths of Russian Luda is located. Already in a courtyard it is possible to experience the atmosphere of old pagan life - on the wattled fence brought by snow horned skulls of animals and pig-iron / clay pots, jugs stick out, and bushes are covered with multi-colored rags. Feeling of some internal silence, silence.
In close timbered halls of the museum the curious tourist`s look surely will face a great number of characters from the Russian fairy tales and myths. Here and a baba-yaga (quite terrible and quite real, at first sight), and sorcerers of the southern and northern suburbs of Russia, and the little man - a borovichok, house, and a bird - a phoenix, and scenes from Christmas fortune-telling and a skeleton of one of the sorcerers who are dug out in Uglich from the remains of a wooden stake at edges. The skull is inclined by eye-sockets down. So earlier in Russia buried sorcerers: put a body facedown that the soul wandered underground eternally, and drove in an aspen into a body. The aspen takes away all black power in itself. That is why never did of it baths, but premises -.
But not only bright and motley, the famous characters decorate with everything the museum - a certain atmosphere of the mysterious and concerning old times will be added by the various mortars, vessels, baskets and regiments which are filled up and
covered with any dried grasses and medicines … the road is farther than us calls to the cozy and kind city of Myshkin.
From the street 9 - go January we come out directly to the bridge through the Volga River.
On the right the island and the wide, not frozen river waters, at the left - a tremendous view of a huge uglichsky reservoir is visible.
40 kilometers of a way - and we in Myshkin.
On one of legends, the name to the city was presented by a field mouse who rescued one of specific princes of this country from a sting of a venomous snake: while he slept, the mouse ran on the person and woke him at the moment of danger. This place and began to be called subsequently Myshkin.
On crossing of streets Yaroslavl and Uglichsky, leaving directly to waters of Volga, the present quarter of the museums, with a record density of the Russian color on square meter is concentrated. Well-known, only in the world, heat will please Mouse Museum and will not force to miss even adults the mice of all forms and the sizes, both Russian, and foreign (from Europe, America). Every week the museum is replenished with bags of letters of grateful tourists from all over the world. The special charm is given to the museum by the cat sitting on the visitors` book who everything allows to iron himself and does not react to flashes of cameras at all. Such proud master of a mouse kingdom.
Perhaps, especially memorable exhibit of the museum many called the image of the cat who is surprisingly vividly looking at you standing on a fireplace as if it is a muzzle of the live cat who just looked out of a window. Ingenious work of the disabled woman, especially, when you understand that it is even not drawing, and … an embroidery!
Near museum of wooden architecture; museum of the vodka king P. A. Smirnov; museum of family collections; at last, the museum of local lore filled chock-full with ancient exhibits from excavation in this region. In total you do not manage to capture as it is already necessary to hurry in the museum last for today - “ Russian valenoks “. On the street already darkened, and souvenir ranks with mice and dealers of a smoked burbot and a pike perch still “ are open to the last client “. Around - the ancient wooden lodges surrounding big white stone St. Nicholas Cathedral of the 18th century, and somewhere from - for trees and small fences the gulf of Volga … is visible to
Several minutes of rise on rather abrupt road, and we in the museum of valenoks where it is possible to learn how make them, history of this especially Russian footwear originating in the millennia, and the real works of art, in which not at once, but their general ancestor is guessed - only some simple valenok …, of
In the small city - the museum to Myshkina stopped and warmly the writer Aksakov, poets Kovalyov, Christmas reported the local atmosphere of the cozy Russian remote place. The town was once nice for the recovered and successful trade of local merchants and the hardworking handymen - handicraftsmen. However, there are enough kind toilers and creatively adjusted people also now, otherwise, we then would not witness all this sincere museum color.
Already absolutely darkened, and it is time to say goodbye to islands of quiet and peaceful life, to ancient Russian way of towns of the Golden Ring that in the Yaroslavl province.
For some reason on spring or in the summer there is a wish to return in silent nice Myshkin again, to bypass that were not in time, to look that did not see … And, maybe, to fish on the Volga open spaces with all the heart!
©2006, Andrey Haustov.
On October 2, 2006]