Where to find giperboreyets? Lovozyorsky diaries. For Seydou to Chivruay ofthe Lovozyorsky tundra was always shrouded in a secret aura. In those far times when Sami were the only inhabitants of the Kola Peninsula, in the center of Lovozyorsky mountains on the bank of Seydozer`s lake the ancient Lappish sanctuary - Kuyva settled down. Once again not to trouble ancient spirit, visit of the lake was forbidden to all except the Lappish shamans and elders. It is quite logical that as a result of this ban in the Lappish culture various myths anyway connected with these places began to propagate over time.
For their last centuries enough collected, but all of them grow dim in comparison with surprising modern fairy tales which appeared already presently. Everything began in 1922 with expedition of the occultist and the writer Alexander Barchenko and proceeds still. I suggest to play once again today destroyers of legends. Well and, at the same time, I will tell you about our two-day mountain walk made in Seydozer`s vicinities.
We will begin with modern legends. So, there was 1922. In the last days of summer to Lovozerye there arrived Alexander Barchenko`s expedition with a research objective of effect of a meryachenye - falling into a condition of a trance of the northern people. Probably, something did not grow together there because its participants did not manage to make any discoveries on an expedition subject. But several months later the note reporting that professor Barchenko opened the remains of the most ancient cultures relating to the period more ancient than an era of origin of the Egyptian civilization was published in one of newspapers. It is necessary to tell that Barchenko stayed on Seydozer only a couple of days and especially did not investigate the vicinity. Therefore he even did not suspect that in mountains at this time geologists already worked. Literally several months later all it “ opening “ were disproved.
In the next decades all Lovozyorsky massif was thoroughly investigated by geologists, mineralogists, botanists, zoologists and entomologists. As one would expect, none of them found any traces of ancient civilizations. But stocks of unique minerals then the Lovozyorsky tundra was declared by strategic object with the closed access - to buy here the ticket were found, it was necessary to show or the passport with a local registration, or special permission to visit of the area. And while in the neighboring Hibinsky mountains mountaineering actively developed, only single groups reached the Lovozyorsky tundra.
Everything changed in 1991. After disintegration of the Soviet Union many areas closed earlier for visit opened again, and more and more fans of mountains began to come to Lovozerye every year. In 1997 on Seydozero there arrived expedition of the Doctor of Philosophy Valery Dyomin, at once upon termination of which there was a shocking news: traces of Giperborei - the legendary northern country which was repeatedly mentioned in ancient myths are found in the Lovozyorsky tundra.
Here that was written, for example, about Hyper Boreas by the ancient Roman writer Pliny Sr. in the 77th year AD to the “ Natural history “:
Behind mountains, on that side of Akvilon, live happy people who call themselves giperboreyets, reach very advanced years and are glorified by wonderful legends. Believe that there are loops of the world and extreme limits of the address of stars. The sun shines there within half a year. Houses for these inhabitants - groves and the woods; there contentions and any diseases are unknown. The death comes only from satiation life... It is impossible to doubt existence of these people. Soon after expedition Dyomin releases
the article “ Hyper Boreas - the foremother of world culture “ in which tells about the ancient artifacts found it in Lovozerye. In the next years it is published some more “ scientific “ works on this subject that provokes the explosive growth of new legends of these places. To the Lovozyorsky tundra hundreds and thousands of seekers of ancient artifacts direct.
Of course, all these legends - no more than art fiction slightly less than completely. At a dawn of the Soviet Union all Lovozyorsky massif was investigated by scientists up and down. And they - that know for certain - all provided “ artifacts “ an ancient civilization have exclusively natural education.
And now when all myths are discredited, time to tell about the following part of our travel across Lovozeryyu - a two-day campaign to mountains came.
We lived on the " base; Yulinsky salma “. It is located in a remote taiga on the bank of the Lake Lovozero. The next settlement - Lovozero (oh these Kola toponyms) - is approximately in 25 kilometers. There are no roads here. It is possible to reach on water on the boat, in the winter in the summer - on ice on a snowmobile. Base - excellent. Extremely I recommend.
Morning before a campaign. Protected lakes near base. On the other hand - the gulf of the Hank from where the two-kilometer road to Seydozer conducts.
We get into the boat, we move to the opposite coast and we begin our campaign. The first purpose - mountain top Ninchurt. There is no track - therefore break directly through the wood. Types on the way open stunning.
Lake Lovozero. Below - the gulf of the Hank. On the contrary - the mountain Kuamdespakhk. Seydozero`s lake. Local call it simpler - the Siedi. Ashore it is possible to make out a cordon of huntsmen on which we were the day before.
The interesting fact - thanks to a special geological structure is present at the Lovozyorsky tundra negative gravitational anomaly. That is, for example, tourist backpacks weigh here slightly - slightly less.
But, anyway, rise is given us with great difficulty. Once again I make to myself the promise: it is more time to give to sports and to eat unhealthy food less. On an old good tradition the promise is forgotten next day.
The gorge at mountain top Ninchurt. Its slopes - as if are put from blocks of the correct rectangular shape.
can seem to the Unprepared reader that to the nature beyond its powers and, for certain, here did not do without mysterious ancient masters. I will disappoint: similar forms are widespread in the north of Russia. For example, quite recently I showed you not less interesting educations, telling about the mountain to Vottovaar and about the lake Pizanets.
A stone pyramid near mountain top. Someone will tell that it is a siedi. Anything similar! It is an ordinary stone pyramid. Though man-made, but to culture of Sami not having any relation.
In a campaign we are accompanied by Ivan Vdovin, the director of the regional especially protected natural territories of Murmansk region. Many years he lives in Revda (this settlement is at the bottom of the Lovozyorsky tundra, near the village of Lovozero) and, apparently, knows each stone in these mountains. The best attendant cannot simply be thought up.
Meanwhile, weather changes. The sky tightens clouds, wind rises. Somewhere in the distance thunder peals roar. We begin to go down to Seydozer. Each one hundred meters on the way original geological educations meet. In general, the geology not only the Lovozyorsky tundra, but also all Kola Peninsula - is extremely rich in various minerals, it even sometimes is called “ mineralogical museum under the open sky “.
Their main concentration is the share of two mountain systems - Khibiny Mountains and Lovozyorsky tundra, in their subsoil about one tenth all mineral varieties of our planet meet. By the way, the considerable part of local minerals is endemic. And this fact became the reason that in the Soviet years access to the Lovozyorsky tundra was closed. Today everything became much simpler - anyone can take a walk in local mountains.
The structure of the tourists coming to these places is very different. Someone comes just to enjoy a majestic northern country, but many go to Lovozerye, having read “ scientific “ Dyomin`s works. News that any ancient civilizations on Seydozer`s coast never existed obviously upsets them. However, some especially rested persons continue to defend persistently the validity of myths about Hyper Boreas.
In former years Ivan Vdovin accompanied them, on the run thinking out new “ facts “ a pier that the Lovozyorsky tundra is an ancient subvolcano. And that the radioactive breeds lying in the form of huge positively concave lens in its subsoil radiate in space over themselves a powerful power stream which, in certain places coming to a surface, is capable to break mentality of the person. And what for this reason on Seydozer never was mammoths earlier. And exactly thanks to radiation trees on its coast grow with an improbable speed and reach the sizes, unusual to these latitudes. And that finding of the person is very dangerous here. And in general “ Kuyva “ - no other than a print of ancient giperboreyets which incidentally was against the rock at the time of emission from a subsoil of a subvolcano powerful energetichesokgo a light stream... Well and so on.
What is interesting, some in these fairy tales trust much more willingly, than in the truth.
Second day of our campaign. We go deep into the gorge Chivruay at the bottom of which the stream of the same name loudly rustles. The gorge extends from Seydozer on the South. In its depth there is an old cozy log hut constructed in 1970 - x years the Arkhangelsk tourists in memory of two dead companions here.
The place is very atmospheric. Besides, here it is crossed several tracks which are running up in different directions therefore at a fire near an izba several groups of tourists have quite often a rest at once.
we Come back. The sky is hopelessly tightened by heavy northern clouds. Seydozero looks gloomy and unfriendly. Kuyva hid on the dark rock and does not want to be shown at all.
While we go, clouds slowly go down below and below. Soon they already begin to creep slowly on the valley. It seems what else slightly - slightly - and a dense veil will absorb us. We quicken the pace. On base for us the bath already burns. On the gulf of the Hank we are already waited by the boat.
We go back to base, floating by a mountain slope Ninchurt. The etymology of the name of the mountain Ninchurt is interesting: “ ninnch “ on - Lappish - a female breast, “ urrt “ - rocky mountain. It is considered that from outside similarity is obvious. When I learned about it, the top of the mountain was hidden under a veil of clouds therefore to check whether there corresponds the mountain form to its name, I did not manage. We arrive to base. Here we are waited by the heated bath and a festive dinner.
On Lovozerye still northern night smoothly falls...
the Original of article is in a travel - the blog kezling. ru