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What secrets are kept by Seydozero - the sacred lake of Sami? Lovozyorsky diaries

Far - far in the north, among the cold tundra of the Kola Peninsula where the sun does not set for the horizon in the summer, and in the winter for weeks hides behind rocky slopes, the ancient massif with the beautiful unusual name - the Lovozyorsky tundra is located. It is the wild and severe land shrouded in mysterious myths and legends.

From above the Lovozyorsky tundra is similar to a big horseshoe. Someone sees in this form similarity to a female bosom (probably, the same perverts to whom it seems in ancient labyrinths). Others declare the intertwining power streams and some special power. The third with enthusiasm tell something about communication with space. The fourth - about ancient civilizations. The fifth - about the vanishing tourists... It is possible to list all these imaginations long enough. The fact among them only one - in the center of the Lovozyorsky tundra Seydozero`s lake which Sami considered as the Saint is located. Why - we will also go to find out today.

We start the motor on the boat and we go to a way. We cross Lovozero. Weather - smart. Winters in Lovozerye rather warm (the proximity of Gulf Stream affects), but snow. At the same time snow in mountains can be met even in August. Usually it disappears only with arrival of autumn rains though in others summer happens remains before the next winter.

Gulf of the Hank. From here to Seydozer the old road of two kilometers conducts. Seydjyavryok - is non-navigable therefore we descend on the coast. The territory around Seydozera is declared by the natural wildlife area. In spite of the fact that lake on - Lappish - yavvr and consequently Seydozero in kanonichny Lappish option has to be called Seydjyavvr the natural wildlife area for some reason is called Seydjyavvr . Sami have several lakes with such name, but it is the most known.

Names practically of all natural objects in Lovozerye come from the Lappish language. The considerable part of them was replaced with the Russified versions over time (for example - the same Lakes Lovozero and Seydozero). The reason for that was especially pragmatic - the adapted names were more convenient to be used in everyday life. And here to remote mountain tops of the Lovozyorsky tundra of business was to nobody therefore the majority of them kept the original Lappish names up to now.

By the way, the Lovozyorsky tundra on - Lappish is called Luyavvr - urrt ( Luyavvr - Lappish name of the Lake Lovozero, urrt - rocky mountain ) . In general, if to speak about the Lappish language, then it - is very rich in various terms connected with descriptions of a landscape. For example, only for various water objects - the rivers, streams, lakes and bogs - Sami have more than 60 various concepts.

Half an hour of slow walk, and we come to Seydozer`s coast. Its length - 8 kilometers, width - from 1,5 to 2,5. Height above sea level - 189 meters.

Thanks to the mountains closing a lake hollow from all directions from severe norths on coast of the lake the special microclimate was formed. The local nature substantially differs from usual polar: not only that here the whole scattering of endemic flora, so is collected also trees reach height, unimaginable for this width, in 20 meters.

Also some ryboproduktivnost indicator improbable by local standards - the general weight gain of fish received within one season is characteristic of Seydozer - is on average about 10 times higher than in other lakes of the Kola Peninsula.

Some fantasts are sure that Seydozero - the center of an ancient mythological civilization - Giperborei. Seekers of loud sensations visit these places since 1922, and constantly make different improbable discoveries.

Reality, of course, considerably surovy more prosy - at a dawn of the Soviet Union it became clear that the Lovozyorsky tundra - the world`s largest source of various rare-earth elements, in particular - a loparita. For this reason in pre-war years all this area was thoroughly studied by geologists. All of them over these discoveries can laugh only sympathetically.

When we only prepared for this travel, my colleague brought to me for testing the new smartphone from Caterpillar - Cat B15Q. Then official sales did not start yet, and a row widespread in the Internet enough fresh announcements was the only source of information on a novelty. Right at the beginning I even doubted that this smartphone in general really exists. Today Cat B15Q is on sale in the majority of shops (for example, in Coherent ) .

The smartphone is positioned by the producer as heavy-duty and moisture-proof - just for real boys: severe excavator operators yes of gallant travelers. In advance I did not manage to unpack it so I went to studying of coast of Seydozer with a merrily yellow box.

Surprisingly, but the smartphone was pleasant to me from first minutes. It is quite heavy, but it is pleasant weight. It is pleasant to hold it in hand: qualitatively rubberized case, ideal adjustment of details - everything gives qualitatively cut out product. Considering today`s tendencies to reduction of price and qualities of the majority of gadgets, this product - a pleasant exception.

From unexpected features - two full-size these - cards. Very conveniently for trips abroad - in order that it is possible to be in touch to use a native Russian sim card, and for cheap local calls and the Internet - some local. The standard size this - cards - too it is rather a plus, than minus: unlike modern micro and nano - this - it can be found in any place forgotten by gods and mobile operators.

One more pleasant surprise - time of autonomous work. In spite of the fact that the smartphone constantly tried to find a network, and I constantly tried to check on it mail and to take the next picture of picturesque landscapes of Lovozerya, in five days of periodic active use it was not discharged.

In the first reviews of Cat B15Q it was said that it perfectly will suit fans of extreme sport and representatives of man`s professions, and also to those who work in difficult weather conditions - to geologists, oil industry workers, seamen. No I treat one of the above-stated categories, but on travel such gadget precisely would not prevent me: you want - drop on rocks, you want - bogs in the river, and it - works and works.

So far I was amused with the smartphone, the inflatable boat was floated. We sail from a cordon.

The highest point of the Lovozyorsky tundra - the mountain Angvundaschorr ( ang on - Lappish - a slope, vuntas - sand, chorr - the ridge, i.e. its name can be translated as the mountain with a sandy slope ) its height - 1126 meters above sea level. And steep slopes tower over Seydozer approximately on 400 - 500 meters.

As I already spoke above, the Lappish name of the lake - Seydyavvr. Yavvr on - Lappish means lake . And here with siedi - everything is not so simple. So it developed that today various interpretation of this word are quite widespread, in the majority incorrect - siedis quite often call original designs from stones - for example, the put pyramids or boulders standing on stone legs. All this is utter nonsense. The siedi is the spirit living in some lakeside stones and rocks, patronizing a fall in its different crafts and having supernatural force.

Here I once again will emphasize that the siedi is not so any beautiful or unusual design from stones or rocks but only allocated during the previous historical period with any cult properties and thus inseparably linked with culture of Sami. Thus, not only the stone, but also any other natural object, for example, an old snag or the moss which is fancifully growing on rocks can be a siedi.

Sami sacredly believed that souls of the died shamans therefore they concerned to them with great respect live in siedis. Was considered that the spirits living in stones help with life - for example, with fishing, on hunting, or on travel. A sacrifice as which cervine horns, and also the heads and tails of fishes most often acted were made to siedis. Sometimes the whole animals, and also things and money were used.

Researchers consider that the first siedis appeared in the Iron Age. It is interesting that the tradition of worship of spirits existed at Sami up to the beginning of the 20th century.

As well as various bans and restrictions were connected with any sacral place with siedis. For example, many sanctuaries were available only for men. It was possible to approach some siedis only on a lap, it was impossible to approach others too close, at the third - to talk loudly. Sami accurately divided siedis into two types: one were public, others - personal. Public siedis were usually put on high coast of the rivers and lakes, or at tops of mountains - so that sanctuaries were well visible from far away. Such siedis with a certain frequency - for example, in connection with various calendar or other events were visited.

If the siedi was put for private use, then it was usually hidden in any secluded places. Was considered that personal siedis helped only until they were not seen by others eye. Sami considered sacred not only a stone, but also the place where it was is located, - for example, the mountain or the island. Rocks anyway reminding the form of the person were especially esteemed. The set of various legends was connected with siedis at all times.

For example, it agrees to one of the Lappish beliefs, fishermen, going to the sea, left part of the soul that in case of their death it was not gobbled up by a mythical sea monster in a stone siedi. Other legend says that the siedis located on the archipelago of the Body in the White Sea - no other than the Swedish soldiers who addressed to rocks.

In the world there are very few siedis about which it is authentically possible to tell that they really are related to cult beliefs of Sami. On Seydozer there is one of them - Kuyva. It is 70 - the meter not made by hand stylized image of a human figure located on the steep rock directly over the coast of the lake - one of the most known and the siedis esteemed by Sami.

Very many legends and myths, the majority of which appeared already presently, are connected with Kuyva. Long time only the Lappish shamans and elders had the right to appear on the sacred lake not to trouble rest spirits. Still the belief goes that Kuyva does not suffer the disrespectful relation and can not let the careless tourist on Seydozero: to send bad weather, wind, a storm, a blizzard. Or can hide in the rock and not be shown.

At last, a couple of words about a real origin of a mysterious silhouette. The research conducted some time ago showed that Kuyva - exclusively natural phenomenon. It - only the plantation of a special fungus which took the natural form. So all comparisons with a human silhouette - no more than game of human imagination.

But, anyway, - agree that the old man Kuyva very effectively looks!

Be continued.


the Original of article is in travel - the blog kezling. ru