How my grandmother cooked borsch? From conversation in the Petersburg subwaythe Ukrainian Chernozem region. Steppes... With their infinite, multi-colored (pesochno - golden - wheat, green with white - buckwheats, it is yellow - green - sunflower), but equally boundless - to the horizon - fields, hundreds, if not in thousands of steppe ponds - “ stavk “ numerous bakhcha, buyeraka and ravines.
the Ukrainian steppes that is wide, on all parts of the world, were stretched between the Southern Bug and Dnieper. The expanse for the tank armadas which managed for a while here in the summer 41 - go, in the winter and in the early spring 44 - go. Especially as in those days there were no powerful forest shelter belts which in 50 yet - x, on “ To the Stalin plan of Transformation of the Nature “ all put here, young and old. Therefore when in the spring 44 - go years near Znamenka the train braked so sharply that bags and the people going with us by one car amicably fell down on a floor, and the German pilot from - for it missed, having pleased with a bomb on the way before the engine, passengers poured out in this the most open for all winds the steppe with a rare bush on edge of a ravine. The father picked up the six-year-old little sister, and to me there was the ninth, I was already the real man therefore - itself, and at once, together, we jumped off from a car footboard. The father fell on a knee, and I... Resisted! But rejoicing to own good luck, understood - the ottsova awkwardness is pardonable. Sometimes still swung it after a contusion … Then we saw
how our pilots shot down that, the bombing echelon the plane before it came for the second calling, and its fragments, to general triumph, burned slightly aside, ahead on the train course. Though actually fire, generally, was not. The tail which was sticking out almost vertically as though the plane unsuccessfully dived “ tell-tale “ smoldered slowly, and pressed by wind to the earth, fluctuating - where to them to move? - smoke strips, especially without hurrying, crawled away somewhere far away to the steppe and there disappeared from eyes.
“ Henkel “ - someone from adults told. And it was remembered.
While repaired a way, the train stood, people burned down fires from last year`s dry stalks of sunflowers and walked, as during the holiday. Someone even took out a record player, and on the steppe on all its breadth the song " spread; The Surprising question why I am a water carrier “ which right there replaced “ Everything is good, the great marchioness “. And it is that tipsy dancers demanded to put more and more! The people of all age who experienced danger of death unburdened the heart.
Still there was a war. Its end was not even visible. The German also did not think to be given. It was still strong and dangerous. But it was already driven. Ours. Burned down, beat and drove. And it introduced some new notes in life. Light and joyful. Notes of hope for something big and good.
- probably, did not pass hour through any, absolutely short time, repairmen restored a way and the driver long brought together people by long lingering beeps. And having collected, moved further. There, where all of us went - I, the father and the little sister. It was necessary for all of us to Dolinskaya - a large junction station to the south of Znamenka in which the railway track forks, leaving as on Nikolaev, and to the north, to Kryvyi Rih and Dnipropetrovsk.
In Dolinskaya we were waited by the grandmother. And its borsch, having tried which though just once, it was possible to understand - what it, happiness, on taste, color and a smell. However, if someone suddenly all - decides that on happiness not in food, and that there is a house under which roof - living, healthy all your family, and they not only are dressed - are put, but also are rather full, then - yes, in fact, it will be right. But borsch too something and means. As symbol of this happiness.
It is a pity, now such dishes are not prepared any more. At least because all is necessary for the real borsch, own, grown up by the hands. And the freshest. When here just came to a kitchen garden and broke from a bed.
Therefore not to cook any more that borsch which was cooked once by my grandmother. But I remember the recipe, one thousand times spotted on cozy and tasty by the smells to kitchen still. Here it, directly before eyes …
After short cooking the grandmother takes out from a chugunka pork that from bones which still to cook and cook, separate meat. His grandmother cuts on small slices. It will return them to a chugunok together with cabbage, already under the end of this surprisingly tasty process.
But it will be still at a distant day. And now... Now - it is a high time until the grandmother was distracted by the cat who dangerously approached a finishing table, to pull down a piece just pulled out from a chugunka, and therefore especially tasty hot svininka. And it smells … From this smell not only ours goes crazy usato - the specialist having a tail in neighbour`s sour cream whom the grandmother unsuccessfully tries to turn out from kitchen, but also from the yard gives the vote of zdorovushchiya chain barbosishche which suddenly all of a sudden begins to wag a tail and to look at all puppyish eyes in love.
But the grandmother does not turn on it the slightest attention. She cuts big beet on large pieces and and puts it to cook together with the stones returned in a chugunok. These pieces which will not allow potato to boil soft in borsch will be light. The second big tuber of beet is cut by large straws, fried on fat together with onions, carrots and slices of green tomato (if borsch summer). Then there tomato paste or tomatoes and rings of a white root of parsley, a broth cherpachok, a tablespoon of sugar and salt is added. The third tuber of beet surely small - is no more than tennis ball. His grandmother rubs on a small grater, washes away from it cold water and pours out this bloody ink in almost ready borsch.
And there is more to come! Beet has also the fourth form - 3 - 4 centimeters of a tops of vegetable if beet from a kitchen garden, and borsch summer. For roasting and the subsequent suppression beet and carrots is not grated at all, and knifed by straws, cubes … as it is pleasant to whom, but “ large-caliber “.
If the white beans dumping when swelling and cooking thin, as polyethylene, a shirt, then it has to be cooked separately and to add to already almost ready borsch. And small color haricot can be put and cooked together with meat.
Time of cooking of beet, meat and haricot is approximately identical, potatoes, carrots and a cabbage cabbage stump (on the fan) or the basis of a cabbage leaf - has twice less chunks, the thin shredded sheets of cabbage - in general five minutes.
On potatoes. Small tubers can be put in the boiling broth with stones, large beet and red or color beans entirely. Those that it is more - halves. Very much large - quarters. Potato in borsch has to look solidly!
The fennel ground with salt is added to already ready borsch before languor together with garlic and old fat.
And pampushkas … What borsch without them? The grandmother had the Russian furnace therefore to borsch always moved svezhevypechenny, garlick gravy (garlic, salt and water) of pampushka which are slightly cooled on a window sill and watered.
And still … Borsch cannot be cooked in the small portions. Even at a small amount of components it is necessary to count on a chugunok. Or, in modern kitchen - on a big, volume pan. Therefore always internally I smile when I see in the same " markets; a set for " borsch; with thin, there is less finger thickness, a plate of red beet …