What features at the Russian national suit?the Ancient Russian suit - a state of mind … Try to put on ancient women`s clothing - a sundress with a shirt. Whether it is possible to go in it fast, angular gait, to do the sharp movements? Involuntarily you become straight, you raise the head, you go softly, accurately, “ as if peahen “.
A little history
In each corner of Russia were the styles of a sundress and motives of an embroidery and therefore, “ meeting on clothes “ it was possible to tell at once from where there arrived a guest.
Inhabitants of the Russian North - Olonets, Novgorod, Pskov, Arkhangelsk provinces wore kosoklinny sundresses - sewed from the wedges found on slanting. Decorated them with stripes with an embroidery on the central level and on shoulder straps, color horizontal strips were on a hem.
The northern kosoklinny sundress can be compared approximately to a modern cut of a skirt - “ sun “ or “ semi-sun “. At a full kosoklin each two wedges form a right angle, at simple - wedges are sewed at an angle which depends on fabric width. In old times to sew a full kosoklinny sundress, about 45 meters of a narrow woven cloth were necessary.
Now on it 6 - 7 meters of flax, a chintz or coarse calico leave (on an incomplete kosoklin - 4 meters of flax). Such cut creates “ a sundress - a bell “ which has the strong power accumulating function of female energy and, accumulating, keeps it (working like the generator). It can be felt in 20 - 30 minutes of carrying - female eyes begin to shine, the back finishes, gait and the movements of a body strongly are corrected, become smoother and soft, even the look changes. All women note that there is no wish to take off such clothes, so in it the soul, so it cozy in the simplicity, loose fit, especially sewed from flax sings.
Any woman of any age in such clothes becomes just a beauty - it is noted also by modern men. Many use variations of a women`s Russian national suit from modern linen or print fabrics for carrying the house, at the dacha, outdoors and on the Russian national holidays.
Sundresses girded the Women`s suit a tight belt, leaving dismissed its long ends. Showed consideration for a belt especially as it carried out the " function; charm “ - defender. To lose a belt meant to be dishonored. From here expression “ without cross, without " belt; meant “ to be unscrupulous “. The belt was worn on a waist or is slightly higher. This dress in different places was supplemented with breast short clothes - the epanechka sewed from silk factory fabric and decorated with a gold lace. On cold days with a sundress carried dushegreyu with long sleeves, with tubular folds on a back. Breed of a dushegrea differs from traditional, it is close to city clothes. Festive dushegreyu sewed from silk fabrics or a velvet and decorated with zolotny sewing.
To a suit with a silk sundress in northern provinces of Russia put on the headdress decorated with sewing by river pearls, gold - silver threads, chipped nacre. The same materials embroidered breast jewelry.
The considerable role was played by a sundress and in the history of wedding fashion. Up to the 19th century the traditional wedding dress of the bride consisted of skillfully decorated sundresses and a shirt.
The sundress was sewed mainly from fabric of red color, richly embroidered by beads and an embroidery, river pearls. Though in the north wedding sundresses were blue color, and in some regions even black. The taffeta, silk, brocade were material for a wedding sundress traditionally. At a traditional Slavic wedding the festive festivities lasted several days, and often the separate sundress, the breed and finishing intended for each of days.
the Traditional complex of men`s wear consisted of a shirt and trousers. Young men put on print shirts, plisovy or nankovy wide trousers, boots, a cashmere or plisovy dressing gown with a belt.
There were shirts:
tunikoobrazny - with pavorotyyu in the middle of a breast without collar, with ties at a collar or with a small high collar on a fastener (The kosovorotka left-side was widespread widely, right-hand - more locally.) ;
with a gusset - from polika, with direct polika, a collected collar and a turn-down collar, with loops, prometanny in fabric for tightening of a collar a band, direct sleeves on a cuff (Shirts with a lastovka - the oldest type which disappeared from life at the end of the 19th century.) ;
with a section in the middle of a breast, a kosovorotka;
shirts with humeral inserts, with a section on the middle of a breast, a kosovorotka.
Shirt of direct breed, “ through “ with inserts “ lastovka “ on shoulders and under mice of color, usually bright, contrast in relation to a shirt, - red, blue etc. - were older type of men`s shirts. The shirt was put on over trousers, girded it a woolen belt and only at work “ zasharovarivatsya “ that is took away in trousers.
Men`s trousers were called differently, depending on their appointment and breed: wide trousers, shanovara, sharnovara, very seldom chembara, sometimes shker or ture.
Their ancient breed is various, but mostly wide. Trouser-legs were called gach, galoshes are more rare; the middle part - a vtok, is more rare a swallow. In old times wide trousers were sewed on a vzderzhka with a wattled cord - a gasnik or a gashnik. At the end of XIX - the beginning of the XX centuries began to sew trousers with a belt - an edge - and on a button - an oshkura.
On a vzderzhka continued to sew only working, hunting wide trousers; often and trouser-legs had below a vzderzhka for protection from midges.